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<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="http://www.beadingdaily.com/utility/FeedStylesheets/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>Bead Chat</title><link>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/27.aspx</link><description>Let’s talk about everything beading!</description><dc:language>en</dc:language><generator>CommunityServer 2008.5 SP2 (Debug Build: 40407.4157)</generator><item><title>Re: Brass and Bronze?</title><link>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/172201.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 14 Nov 2012 14:42:29 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e599e337-6bb7-4670-8e80-180f614937ac:172201</guid><dc:creator>Valbeads</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/172201.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=27&amp;PostID=172201</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;That&amp;#39;s a lovely necklace Harry.&amp;nbsp; I like it and would probably wear it&amp;nbsp;a lot.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;As for bronze, just polish it to shine like brass, I would say.&amp;nbsp; I use antique bronze in some of my wirework projects.&amp;nbsp; It&amp;#39;s an excellent complemt, and sometimes contrast to certain gems I might use in a piece.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Val&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Brass and Bronze?</title><link>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/172195.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 14 Nov 2012 08:05:04 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e599e337-6bb7-4670-8e80-180f614937ac:172195</guid><dc:creator>HarryPitts</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/172195.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=27&amp;PostID=172195</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;
&lt;p class="MsoNormal"&gt;&lt;span&gt;There
is no much big different with these both colors. But bronze color most of the
time looks so dull and also I would like to say here when you are trying to make
something from this both color, make sure to have a mix-up colors as white or
off white.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p class="MsoNormal"&gt;&lt;img src="http://i49.tinypic.com/34pnl0l.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Brass and Bronze?</title><link>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/92773.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 17 Sep 2010 20:15:28 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e599e337-6bb7-4670-8e80-180f614937ac:92773</guid><dc:creator>Sherri S.</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/92773.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=27&amp;PostID=92773</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;But does LOS work on brass?&amp;nbsp; I didn&amp;#39;t think it worked on brass.&amp;nbsp; &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;In any case, I have found that using heat , for a certain time under the broiler depending on the thickness of the brass, is the best way to antique brass.&amp;nbsp; The only thing is, you have to polish a bit of the antiquing off (using Barkeeper&amp;#39;s Friend sprinkled on a wet sponge) to bring out highlights, then let the pieces sit out for a while - say 3-4 weeks - exposed to air to turn the highlighted, recently buffed areas a yellow color again.&amp;nbsp; Once the highlighted pieces get to your desired color (exposed to air - doesn&amp;#39;t take long), they need to be lacquered or they will continue to darken.&amp;nbsp; Rio Grande carries a great lacquer that will work in this manner.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;These have been my experiences since I last posted on this thread!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Brass and Bronze?</title><link>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/92709.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 16 Sep 2010 20:02:06 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e599e337-6bb7-4670-8e80-180f614937ac:92709</guid><dc:creator>gerrypeters98</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/92709.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=27&amp;PostID=92709</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Liver of Sulfur or Lime Sulfur does not need to be heated and color is based on immersion time and concentration. Just like store bought antiquing solutions it can be watered down based on the substate you are trying to finish. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Brass and Bronze?</title><link>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/67747.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 10 Mar 2010 18:48:46 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e599e337-6bb7-4670-8e80-180f614937ac:67747</guid><dc:creator>Sherri S.</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/67747.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=27&amp;PostID=67747</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Thanks Rose, for bringing this thread back to life. I never posted how the antiquing solution I purchased worked.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I bought the solution from houseofantiquehardware.com.&amp;nbsp; Although it&amp;#39;s easy to use and is reuseable, I didn&amp;#39;t like the way it patinaed the brass.&amp;nbsp; It works quickly but there were two things I didn&amp;#39;t like about it.&amp;nbsp; First, it did not antique pieces evenly.&amp;nbsp; Second, the antiquing turns BLACK, and I want to antique brass to a more brown color.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I did some searching in the Etsy forums and found that you can actually antique brass with heat, no chemicals needed!&amp;nbsp; I&amp;#39;m experimenting with that now.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Brass and Bronze?</title><link>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/67702.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:44:22 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e599e337-6bb7-4670-8e80-180f614937ac:67702</guid><dc:creator>rbinoya</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/67702.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=27&amp;PostID=67702</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I was JUST about to post a question like this. I love that this forum lists similar threads! &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Thank you, everyone! &lt;img src="http://beadingdaily.com/emoticons/emotion-1.gif" alt="Smile" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;~Rose&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Brass and Bronze?</title><link>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54919.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 30 Nov 2009 19:08:48 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e599e337-6bb7-4670-8e80-180f614937ac:54919</guid><dc:creator>CrystalCubeBead</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54919.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=27&amp;PostID=54919</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.beadingdaily.com/Themes/beadingdaily/images/icon-quote.gif"&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Erin:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;You can buy raw copper wire at monsterslayer.com.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;It may well be cheaper at hardware and electical supply stores and &amp;#39;Home Depot&amp;#39; type stores.&amp;nbsp; Also, scraps and lengths of wire too short to use end up at thye recycle (scrap) yards.&amp;nbsp; A local electric motor rewinder near here will sell lengths of waste wire at scrap prices.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Brass and Bronze?</title><link>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54883.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 30 Nov 2009 16:20:03 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e599e337-6bb7-4670-8e80-180f614937ac:54883</guid><dc:creator>Erin@76</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54883.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=27&amp;PostID=54883</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.beadingdaily.com/Themes/beadingdaily/images/icon-quote.gif"&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Vicki:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;I buy 16 gauge copper from JoAnn&amp;#39;s that has a protective coating on it.&amp;nbsp; When I want to antique it, I have to sand off the coating first.&amp;nbsp; (I&amp;#39;m looking into hardware stores as possible suppliers of non-protected copper.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;You can buy raw copper wire at monsterslayer.com. Its not expensive. Or Fusionbeads.com carries it in smaller amounts. (not sure if they have 16 gauge, though) They also carry it in half hard besides the typical dead soft, which is nice in the copper wire because its so soft to begin with. It has a bit more body but is still quite flexible and easy to work with. They also have free shipping at fusion beads.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Erin&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Brass and Bronze?</title><link>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54869.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 30 Nov 2009 15:33:35 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e599e337-6bb7-4670-8e80-180f614937ac:54869</guid><dc:creator>LitaC2</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54869.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=27&amp;PostID=54869</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;Sherri -&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The new LOS in liquid/gel form is supposed to last 5+ years - but since this product&amp;#39;s only been on the market for a year - that really has to be proven.&amp;nbsp; The rock/pebble stuff will loose its potency if it&amp;#39;s not kept in an airtight container.&amp;nbsp; &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I&amp;#39;d be interested to know how the antiquing solution works - I&amp;#39;ve been reluctant to use chemicals like Jax, which are very toxic.&amp;nbsp; LOS is, despite the stink, non-toxic - and if you dilute it and pour it into your garden, it will work as a fertilizer.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Lita&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Brass and Bronze?</title><link>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54805.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 30 Nov 2009 01:47:18 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e599e337-6bb7-4670-8e80-180f614937ac:54805</guid><dc:creator>Vicki@93</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54805.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=27&amp;PostID=54805</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.beadingdaily.com/Themes/beadingdaily/images/icon-quote.gif"&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Sherri S.:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;What I don&amp;#39;t like about it is that either the item or the LOS has to be hot to work.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Actually liver of sulphur works cold too, just not as fast.&amp;nbsp; I&amp;#39;ve used mine hot at night and then cold the next morning too.&amp;nbsp; It&amp;#39;s a slow process, but you can sometimes control it better if you don&amp;#39;t have to worry that it will act too fast to get where you want it to be.&amp;nbsp; &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I&amp;#39;ve also used it on raw copper. In fact, I buy 16 gauge copper from JoAnn&amp;#39;s that has a protective coating on it.&amp;nbsp; When I want to antique it, I have to sand off the coating first.&amp;nbsp; (I&amp;#39;m looking into hardware stores as possible suppliers of non-protected copper.&amp;nbsp; The store closest to my house is not a deal compared to JoAnns.)&amp;nbsp; &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I&amp;#39;ve never worked with raw bronze.&amp;nbsp; When I work with Vintaj, I find the head pins to be very soft, but&amp;nbsp;I&amp;#39;m not sure what their metal content is.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your project!&amp;nbsp; Let us know how the browning agent works.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Vicki&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Brass and Bronze?</title><link>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54773.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 29 Nov 2009 18:56:00 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e599e337-6bb7-4670-8e80-180f614937ac:54773</guid><dc:creator>Sherri S.</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54773.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=27&amp;PostID=54773</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.beadingdaily.com/Themes/beadingdaily/images/icon-quote.gif"&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Erin:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;There is a new LOS product that I want to try that is a liquid, not the chunks that you have to disolve in water. Its supposed to have a longer shelf life and be much easier to work with. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I actually have a bottle of that out in my garage that I got from Rio several years ago, but never tried it.&amp;nbsp; And I don&amp;#39;t know if it&amp;#39;s reusable or if I have to dispose of what I used.&amp;nbsp; It&amp;#39;s shelf life may have already passed by now, I don&amp;#39;t know.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;But I ordered a bottle of brass aging solution from an &amp;quot;antique brass hardware&amp;quot; store online, and it comes with instructions.&amp;nbsp; We shall see how that will work.&amp;nbsp; I really want to learn how to &amp;#39;antique&amp;#39; brass.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Brass and Bronze?</title><link>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54606.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 26 Nov 2009 17:05:23 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e599e337-6bb7-4670-8e80-180f614937ac:54606</guid><dc:creator>Erin@76</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54606.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=27&amp;PostID=54606</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.beadingdaily.com/Themes/beadingdaily/images/icon-quote.gif"&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Sherri S.:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;I thought liver of sulfur was only for antiquing silver?&amp;nbsp; What I don&amp;#39;t like about it is that either the item or the LOS has to be hot to work.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I have never used liver of sulfur on brass, but understand that you can use it on silver, copper, brass or bronze. There is a new LOS product that I want to try that is a liquid, not the chunks that you have to disolve in water. Its supposed to have a longer shelf life and be much easier to work with. They carry it at monsterslayer.com. I was going to buy some with my last order a few weeks ago, but they were out of stock. I think its about $10. They also sell it at www.cooltools.us, and have a very informative free video on how to use it. check it out!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Erin&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Brass and Bronze?</title><link>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54565.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 26 Nov 2009 00:19:50 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e599e337-6bb7-4670-8e80-180f614937ac:54565</guid><dc:creator>Sherri S.</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54565.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=27&amp;PostID=54565</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.beadingdaily.com/Themes/beadingdaily/images/icon-quote.gif"&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Erin:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.beadingdaily.com/Themes/beadingdaily/images/icon-quote.gif"&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Sherri S.:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;do you know how to patina (antique) brass yourself?&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;There are lots of ways--they make antiquing solutions that you can buy, like liver of sulphur, or there&amp;#39;s one I remember seeing on monsterslayer.com that is more of a &amp;quot;browning&amp;quot; agent. Or you can baste it with cooking oil and bake in the oven.I&amp;#39;ve never tried that.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I thought liver of sulfur was only for antiquing silver?&amp;nbsp; What I don&amp;#39;t like about it is that either the item or the LOS has to be hot to work. I am more interested in a browning agent, so I&amp;#39;ll check out monsterslayer.&amp;nbsp; Thanks for that tip!&amp;nbsp; :o)&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Brass and Bronze?</title><link>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54546.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 25 Nov 2009 20:43:26 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e599e337-6bb7-4670-8e80-180f614937ac:54546</guid><dc:creator>Erin@76</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/thread/54546.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=27&amp;PostID=54546</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.beadingdaily.com/Themes/beadingdaily/images/icon-quote.gif"&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Sherri S.:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;do you know how to patina (antique) brass yourself?&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;There are lots of ways--they make antiquing solutions that you can buy, like liver of sulphur, or there&amp;#39;s one I remember seeing on monsterslayer.com that is more of a &amp;quot;browning&amp;quot; agent. Or you can baste it with cooking oil and bake in the oven.I&amp;#39;ve never tried that.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I do an easy cheap trick of taking a few cotton balls soaked with amonia and put them in a small zip lock baggie with the jump rings I want to antique. Seal the baggie and they will start to darken right away. If you leave them in there long enough, they will go completely black. The bad thing about this method is you usually don&amp;#39;t get an even finish. Its sort of splotchy, but I kind of like them that way.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Erin&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>