heavy beads

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KimW@52 wrote
on May 23, 2008 2:43 PM

 Alot of projects I make have heavy beads in them and I find them either coming loose and falling apart or slipping. What type of wire is recommended?

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Radiance@3 wrote
on May 23, 2008 4:24 PM
What kind of projects are you working on -- stringing, looming, off-loom weaving?
Carol
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KimW@52 wrote
on May 23, 2008 6:45 PM

 stringing....also do you double crimp?

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Nemeton wrote
on May 24, 2008 10:22 AM

I don't do a lot of stringing but when I do I usually use .018" beading wire, 2 x 2 mm sterling crimp tubes, and magical crimping pliers. I don't often need to double crimp unless something is really REALLY heavy.

Is it the wire breaking that's the problem, or is it the crimps slipping? If it's the crimps and you're using plated metal or copper ones, try another batch from a different supplier, as they can vary hugely in quality. If it's the wire, try a heavier gauge - you can also minimize wear and tear by filling the holes in your big beads with seed beads or plastic tubing, so they don't rattle around on the wire. Or put a small round bead or bicone at either end of your big beads.

Lynn

 

My website: http://lynndavybeadwork.co.uk/

 

 

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RobynO2 wrote
on May 24, 2008 8:58 PM

 I remember getting advice to use the heaviest gauge wire that will still fit through your beads.  Try using different brands of crimps, like someone suggested above.  I've double-crimped very few projects, but some do require it.  How heavy are your necklaces, usually?

 

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SallyM@40 wrote
on May 25, 2008 11:30 AM

 What are the size of the beads?  Are they glass or something else?  Like in other beadweaving projects, thread size is decided by the size of beads used and the amount of times thread goes through the bead.  So if you string, but use a bead beside the large bead you will have to gauge your wire to fit the bead rather than the large bead.  So designing the project so it will be stable is a large feature in this project.  Perhaps the wire you are using could be doubled so you string it on and then connect your clasp and crimp and then string back to the other side and complete the clasp again or finally and crimp it.  Without seeing what you are doing, size of beads, size of wire, type of beads and wire, etc we can only give you what comes to our mind at the moment.  If you need help try finding a magazine with a similar project and see what it says to do. Take the information that will help you and apply it to your own project.  That is why designing is worth some value as we found out all the faults before we published it, we hope.  I wear my project and consider weight, length, using 3 colors if possible, and then adjust what I do not like in making another one and finally publishing it for use.  Ptting 15's, 11's seed beads inside the large bead would help but the wire would have to be small enough for that size.  The wire would have less chance to be frayed.  Again if you are using a large bead that is a 3 size glass, maybe you just need to use softflex wire which is coated and comes in various sizes.  This is a great product that is worth the cost if you are unhappy with the results you are getting with your wire now.  Consider sharing more information or/and magazine reading to help guide you in this problem.  With details I am sure you will get the answer forthwith.

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Radiance@3 wrote
on May 27, 2008 9:29 AM
I agree with others who would like to know more details of your projects in order to give better answers... but a couple of things that come to mind are: 1. In my experience, the tiniest 1mm crimps are just worthless. I rarely string, but when I do, I use 3mm crimps, which hold much more firmly. I also run the SoftFlex back through the beads for at least a couple of inches before I trim it off. Whether this actually helps or not, I don't know for sure -- but it makes me FEEL better not to see that cut end of SoftFlex within a hairsbreadth of the crimp! :-) 2. You mention that your beads are "slipping," and I wonder if you may mean that they slide around on the SoftFlex. If so, you may need to (a) pull the whole piece tighter before you crimp, or (b) incorporate some very small beads between the large beads in your designs, to create space between the bigger beads when the piece drapes around a neck or wrist (similar to the way knots between pearls work). That will not only help things drape more attractively, but also ensure that your SoftFlex stays concealed.
Carol
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KimW@52 wrote
on May 27, 2008 12:53 PM

 Thanks to everyone who offered advice. I use alot of different stones and glass beads to make chunky bracelets and also for focal beads to necklaces. I will try a different crimp and also softflex. Thanks again...

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ToniS@14 wrote
on May 28, 2008 3:15 AM

I, too, love big, chunky beads.  One suggestion I didn't see above is that when I've strung a strand and am ready to finish, I complete one end all the way to the clasp, then take the unfinished end, attach a hemostat and hang the other end of the hemostat over the hinge on the closet door.  (I have cats who adore batting the hanging beads around unless they're up high). I leave them for at least 24 hours before finishing off.  I find that wire, even the heaviest, stretches a little - it follows the longer the wire, the more it stretches - and it makes me crazy to have that little beadless gap.  I almost always double-crimp using 2mm crimp tubes, crimp covers and wire thimbles over the clasp rings.  

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NitzaA wrote
on Jul 29, 2008 1:08 PM

 Do you consider incorporate wireworking and chain in these projects? It can make diference depending in what you want. It can be a simple wirework. For explore posibilities you can see some projects here in Beading Daily in wire section.

 

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