Inside Beadwork Magazine : Bead-weaving, Peyote Stitch

What’s Your Favorite Odd-Count Peyote Turnaround?

Melinda Barta — Thu, 09 May 2013 02:38:00 GMT

If you're familiar with Beadwork magazine then surely you're already aware of the versatility of peyote stitch. One of my favorite things about this stitch is that there are often several ways to achieve the same look, especially when it comes to odd-count turnarounds.

Personally, I'm a big fan of a thread-loop turnaround (see below). Or, if I feel the thread is building up on the side of the beadwork, I'll occasionally throw in a square-stitch turnaround. However, a project by Pamela Kearns in the June/July issue of Beadwork reminds me how great figure-eight turnarounds can be.

	You might ask yourself, "Why even bother with odd-count peyote when even-count is so easy to turn?" Pamela's Boho Bangle shows why: Some patterned strips of peyote call for an odd number of beads in order to be symmetrical.
	Regardless of which turnaround method you like most for odd-count peyote, here's how I recommend you start the first three rows: String an odd number of beads for Rows 1 and 2. Work Row 3 back across the work as usual with 1 bead in each stitch. Knot the working and tail threads together and pass back through the last bead added.
	Work Row 4 as usual with 1 bead in each stitch, as shown here by the blue thread. Option 1 Now here is where you have a decision to make. To form a thread-loop turnaround at the end of Row 5, follow the red thread in this illustration: After stringing the final bead in the row, pass the needle under previous threads on the outside edge of the work, and then pass back through the last bead added. Don't pull too tight or the work can begin to curve on this side.
	Option 2 To end Row 5 with a figure-eight turnaround, string the final bead of the row and then weave through beads in a figure-eight pattern to exit back through the last bead added, as shown by the green thread in this illustration.

For Pamela's complete peyote-stitch pattern and instructions for securing peyote-stitch bands to Regaliz licorice leather, don't miss the June/July 2013 issue of Beadwork.

Play around to find your preference, then share with us here your favorite approach to navigating odd-count peyote turnarounds.

Have fun!
Melinda
Editor, Beadwork

Stitching Durable Beadwork: How to Create and Care for Lasting Jewelry

Melinda Barta — Thu, 18 Apr 2013 02:26:00 GMT

In today's blog I share one of my favorite sidebars from my book Mastering Peyote Stitch, plus a few extra tips and techniques that aren't included in the book.

Follow these simple stitching tips and care guidelines to keep the jewelry you devoted hours into making looking brand new. Don't forget to share this information with any non-beaders you gift or sell your work to; they might not be as familiar with the amazing yet often delicate architecture behind beadwoven jewelry.

--Never stitch with a damaged thread. If you see a thread fray, replace it immediately to avoid weak spots. Wax and thread conditioner can help prevent fraying, but be sure to inquire about its archival quality with its manufacturer.

--Keep the work flexible. Beads can break easily when pieces made with too tight tension are manipulated. After every two or three rows or rounds worked, very gently twist and turn the beadwork to keep it a bit malleable.

--End your thread after completing intricate components and before starting clasps. If a thread does break between components or at a connection point, you'll be left with an easy repair.

--Store pieces flat or rested on neck forms. Hanging a beaded rope or strap on a small jewelry hook can stretch the thread that joins the beads beyond repair. Resist the urge to keep all of your beautiful beadwork on display. Instead, keep them dust free in a drawer or in a nice jewelry roll like the one shown here from Etsy. Or, better yet, splurge for a glass china cabinet.

--When wearing your jewelry remember, "last thing on, first thing off" to keep makeup, perfume, and hairspray off the beads.

--Always prestretch nylon threads. Otherwise, the thread will stretch after you finish, resulting in loose beads.

--Double your thread when stitching crystals and other sharp-holed beads. This way, if one thread breaks, you'll have a little more time to repair the damage before the second breaks and you lose your bead(s).

--Reinforce, reinforce, and reinforce areas joined by magnets so they can withstand repetitive pulling.

--Avoid glue. Even the best glues can become brittle, discolor, or deteriorate over time. Almost all beadwoven pieces can be made with just a needle and thread.

--There are two theories when it comes to thread length: 1) Use long thread to reduce the number of knots in the work; knots can create weak points. 2) Use short length of threads to cut down on tangling and the wear and tear caused by passing through beads multiple times. Personally, I'm in the second camp, but please find what works for you.

--Diligently cull your beads. Sharp-edged beads lead to thread breakage so it's best to avoid them.

--Never trim a thread next to a knot; it will always find a way to come undone. Instead, weave back through several beads after tying the knot and before ending the thread.

--When stitching crystals, work the first pass with light tension with the goal of setting the beads in place. Then, work a second round, securely stitching them in place. Always pull the thread straight away from the bead to avoid cutting it on the side of the hole.

--Exposed threads=weak points. Consider working picots (as shown here; see Beadwork magazine for more how-tos) or other embellishments along the edges of flat peyote to conceal and protect exposed threads.

--Be sure your thread size is appropriate for the job at hand. Thin threads may break too easily. Thick thread may make your work rigid or fill your beads too quickly, which prevents you from making multiple passes.

--When zipping together two peyote edges, pull the entire length of the thread through the work after passing through just two or three beads. If you make small stitches down the entire edge and then try to pull the rest of the thread through, you'll put unneeded strain on the remaining thread.

What other great techniques do you use for protecting your jewelry for future generations?

Have fun!
Melinda
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Melinda Barta
Editor, Beadwork magazine

6 MORE bead shapes! Meet the new Bricks, Rullas, Pyramids, BeadStuds, Rizos, and Long Drops

Melinda Barta — Thu, 28 Mar 2013 02:50:00 GMT

I loved Jean Campbell's post last week on the difference between Superduo and Twin beads so much that I thought I'd follow up this week with a few more of the new shaped beads. If you missed Jean's in-depth look at two-hole seed beads, see her post here.

Here are the 6 newest shapes to come across my desk:

	Bricks These thick, rectangular, Czech pressed-glass beads are essentially smaller versions of the flat, 2-hole CzechMate Tiles-think of ½ of a CzechMate, with less rounded corners. They measure 6x3x3mm, with two 1mm-large holes that are about 2mm apart. The strands I've received are quite consistent in size and don't require much, if any, culling. I love working flat herringbone stitch with these beads. The beads won't angle to resemble classic herringbone, but a herringbone thread path quickly joins them. I also love working flat peyote stitch with these beads.
	Rullas Rullas are very similar to bricks because they also have 2 holes and are similar in size. However, their cylindrical profile is what sets the two apart. Rullas are 5mm wide and 3mm tall, with the two 1mm-large holes about 1.5mm apart. As with the bricks, I've found they are best suited for herringbone and peyote stitches, but this shouldn't deter you from playing around with them in other stitches. They tend to flop around a bit with flat right-angle weave, so plan on adding a few nets of embellishment beads to keep them in place.
	BeadStuds What do you get when you sit a pyramid on top of a flat, two-hole CzechMate Tile? A BeadStud! These fun beads are 12mm square at the base and about 9mm tall. The point of the pyramid is only on one side, so be mindful of this if your design will allow the beads to flip around. Pyramids I'm sure you've seen the many new bead spikes on the market. Give a spike 4 sides and what do you have? A pyramid! Measuring in at 7x11mm, their bases are wide and stable, making them perfect atop a bead-embroidery foundation. The 1mm-large hole sits about 3mm above the base of the bead, so plan to bead around the base of the pyramid to hide any thread left exposed. I would expect these beads to become available in more sizes, if they aren't already.
	Rizos These new embellishment beads, designed by Beadwork Designer of the Year Sabine Lippert, are elongated drop beads shaped like a grain of rice with one hole at one end. They measure 6mm long and are 3mm wide on one side and 2mm wide on the other side. I've found them to be very consistent in size. They are produced in the Czech Republic. I love the way the team at Beads by Blanche describes how this bead was born, read the charming love story here.
	Long drops Miyuki also has a new longer drop bead. Simply called "long drops," these beads are 5mm long and 3mm wide. They are more bulbous at the end than Rizos. I've found the top width of these beads (at the base of the hole) to be a bit inconsistent, so some culling is needed.
	Want to see these beads in action? Stay tuned for more information on my newest video workshop Beading with Shaped Beads: Tilas, Superduos, Peanuts, and More. In this DVD I discuss today's most popular shaped beads, including those shown above, and how to use them successfully in beadweaving projects. Download the workshop starting April 8th or purchase the DVD April 30th at interweavestore.com. Follow along as I explain and demonstrate the techniques that work best with each bead shape, plus watch me share tips for hiding threads, maintaining proper tension, and more. Discover which similar beads are interchangeable and which aren't.

Please share your experiences with the new shaped beads here. The possibilities are endless.

Have fun!
Melinda

Editor, Beadwork magazine

Raw Gemstones and Druzy Jewelry

Kate Wilson — Thu, 21 Feb 2013 11:00:00 GMT

My two favorite fashion trends right now (it changes often) are the raw gemstone and druzy components showing up in jewelry!

Last weekend I decided to bezel an agate druzy bead with gold to create a new pendant for myself--and I've received a shower of compliments! I used 1.5mm gold cubes for 5 rows of tubular peyote stitch, then 2 rows using gold size 11/0 seed beads around the front and back of the bezel, all stitched around an agate druzy bead from Bead Trust (similar agate druzy pendants still available).

A druzy, also spelled drusy, is the cavity of a gemstone lined with crystals. One can be found when a stone is fractured, or along the vein of minerals in the earth. It can occur on many different minerals, but in jewelry I've seen quartz, amethyst, and agate druzies used the most. If you've ever visited a natural rock or geology store, no doubt you've seen druzy geodes.

I prefer the look of these rugged, raw, unpolished gemstones to that of smooth, polished pieces because they look like they're covered in glitter. In jewelry, I love seeing them alongside bright metallic gold or silver-and paired with a white t-shirt, jeans, and black blazer for an everyday look. Or attached to a long chain and draped around the neck over a button-up and pencil skirt for the office. Whatever look I'm going for, there's a raw gemstone or druzy to wear with it.

Here are a few of my favorites:

I love these amethyst slice druzy earrings from Magic Loot Designs. The gold just lines the druzy and allows for viewing of the rock down to the core of the geode.

I just ordered this beauty for myself from Beading on a Budget (sorry, it's SOLD!). It's a gold-plated aqua quartz druzy pendant. I'll hang it from a long gold rope chain and layer it with other gold necklaces.

These silver druzies from Akya would make an ideal pair of earrings--either studs or drops. I've been drooling over them for days.

And these are the raw gemstone sticks we just got in the office to play with! The top 2 strands are from Eagle Gemstone. The bottom strand is raw quartz sticks I ordered from Happy Mango Beads for my next project. I can't wait to try them out!

What are you planning for your next project? Will you incorporate raw gemstones or druzies into your designs? Tell us about it in the comments section below!

Bead chic,

Kate Wilson
Project Editor

Amazing "New" Beading Tool!

Melinda Barta — Thu, 24 Jan 2013 10:32:00 GMT

Though not technically a "beading tool," my photocopier has quickly become my new best friend. Who would have ever thought that this dusty old thing would be able to save me hours of design time and up to weeks of beading?

When working up the initial sketches for my Happy-Go-Lucky Links necklace for my new book, Mastering Peyote Stitch, I knew I wanted the necklace to be long. So long that I wouldn't need a clasp. However, because each oval link can take over 30 minutes to make, I wanted to be sure I was happy with the design before committing to beading that many ovals. Plus, I was grateful to have a friend help me with the beading, and by nailing down the design in advance, I was able to ask (ok, beg) for just the right number of ovals.

Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE MicrosoftInternetExplorer4	For my first step, I beaded 1 oval and photocopied it many times.
	After cutting out the ovals, I began to play around with the design, taping them in different arrangements-Did I want a symmetrical design? How did asymmetrical look? How long should it be? Because I knew I wanted the center links to incorporate the lampwork beads from Zbeads, I left larger spaces between some of the ovals.
	Once I was happy with my layout, my friend and I were ready to bead! And here's the result!
	My photocopier also came to the rescue when beading this necklace I call Seeds & Stones. (It was featured in Beadwork's Challenge department several years ago.) After beading just one of the scalloped segments, I photocopied several more and was able to determine their exact connection points, and how many scallops were needed.

I've heard of other beaders who design in this same manner using Photoshop, or other photo-editing software, but I'm more of a cut-and-paste type of gal.

Give it a try and let us know your results!
Have fun,
Melinda
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Melinda Barta
Editor, Beadwork

Learn How to Add New Beading Thread with a Slipknot from Melanie Potter

Melinda Barta — Thu, 03 Jan 2013 05:11:00 GMT

A few years back I treated myself to a "beadcation." If you haven't done this for yourself yet, I highly recommend it! For my beadcation, I choose a trip to breathtaking San Luis Obispo, California to attend classes at Beads on the Vine with top teachers Melanie Potter, Cynthia Rutledge, Laura McCabe, and Carol Wilcox Wells. I still keep in touch with the friends I made there and often reference the amazing new tips and techniques I picked up.

While it's not always easy for us to sneak away to such great adventures as Beads on the Vine, today I'm happy to share with you one of the many great tips I learned from Beadwork Designer of the Year Melanie Potter. Not only is Melanie one of the sweetest people I know, but she's also a beading genius and a wonderfully patient teacher. What I love most about this technique is that it is sure to change the way you bead each and every time!

In this video excerpt from Bead Stitching Chevron Chain with Melanie Potter, Melanie shows us how to add a new thread mid-project, without having to end one thread and start another. In the past when my beading thread ran short, I used to tie it off between beads, weave the tail through a few beads, and trim the tail. Then, I would proceed to tie in five or so more feet of thread and weave it through beads to pick up where I left off. But now that I use this new slipknot technique from Melanie, adding new thread is a breeze and saves so much time and effort.

Best of all, this technique works with any beadwoven project, including peyote stitch, herringbone stitch, netting, right-angle weave, and more! So sit back, relax, and imagine you're on your own beadcation while taking this mini private lesson from Melanie Potter.

Do you have a favorite beadcation? Or do you have a different favorite technique for adding new thread?

Have fun,
Melinda

Editor, Beadwork

Psyched for Spikes!

Melinda Barta — Thu, 27 Sep 2012 03:30:00 GMT

Lately, I’ve been seeing some very inspiring beadwork made with spike beads—so inspiring, in fact, that I finally ordered some for myself. Beware: Designs incorporating these hot new beads are anything but subtle!

Today, I share with you a quick-and-easy way to turn a 7x17mm spike into a charm or pendant using tubular peyote stitch. Make two for a funky pair of earrings.

	Rounds 1 and 2: Use a comfortable length of thread (I used about 4' of FireLine) to string one 7x17 spike. String 9 size 11° seed beads; pass through the spike again. String 9 more size 11° seed beads; pass through the spike and position this new set of beads around the other side of the spike. Pass through all 18 seed beads. To set the tension, I knotted my working thread between beads, then passed through a few more beads. If adjusting the bead count to accommodate different-sized spikes or seed beads, make sure you end up with an even number of seed beads around the base before moving on to Round 3.
	Round 3: Work tubular peyote stitch with 1 size 11° in each stitch, placing the beads of this round closer to the base of the spike than the tip.
	Rounds 4-6: Work 2 rounds of tubular peyote stitch with 1 size 11° in each stitch. Work Round 6 with 1 size 15° in each stitch. Use tight tension so the beadwork begins to cup around the base of the spike.
	Loop and Rounds 7 and 8: Use size 15°s to form a loop that spans over the base of the spike, connecting to beads of Rounds 5 and 6. Weave through beads to exit Round 1. Work 2 rounds toward the tip of the spike, using size 15°s.
	Embellishment: Work rounds of embellishment as you wish. The hard part is knowing when to stop! In this sample, I used the stitch-in-the-ditch embellishment technique to add 1 size 11° between each bead of Round 3. Then, I stitched 3-bead picots with size 15° to the stitch-in-the-ditch beads. And since I was happy with how that layering turned out, I added another round of 3-bead picots (again with size 15°s) to the beads of Round 4. Here's a side and top view of my finished piece.
Please share your spike-bead experience. This certainly won't be the last time this fun new bead shape makes its way into my beadwork. The spike shown here is "amber magic" from Beyond Beadery. Have fun! Melinda Editor, Beadwork