Inside Beadwork Magazine

Stitch Pro: Galvanized Seed Beads 101

2013-06-17T09:23:00Z

Hands down, my favorite type of seed bead is a shiny, metallic one. I just love the way they resemble hammered metal when they're stitched together, and they provide such a nice contrast to matte seed beads. Back in the day, I bought all kinds of these metallic seed beads, even though I'd been warned that their galvanized finish was unstable. Imagine my delight when the permanent-finish versions came on the market...I figure you can never have enough silver, gold, bronze, copper, or nickel seed beads (or, for that matter, metallic mauve, lime, cranberry, or pumpkin ones!). During my love affair with these metallic beauties, I've learned a thing or two about both the galvanized and permanent finish versions:

Galvanized

-Galvanized beads have a clear seed bead at their core to which a special finish has been added. This finish is pretty thick, so your galvanized seed beads may be slightly (we're talking micromilimeters) larger than other seed beads in your project. With a few beads here and there it won't really add up to much, but if you're using all galvanized beads, you might end up with a slightly larger finished piece than planned.

-If you had garlic and red wine for dinner the night before using a galvanized bead, chances are you're going to strip the metallic finish right off as you work with it. Same goes for nerves--whenever I've got a deadline and I'm stitching like mad with galvanized beads, the finish wears pretty thin. It has something to do with the naturally occurring acid coming from your fingers, and is definitely something to watch out for.

-Whether you're a garlic-eater or not, it's not a bad idea to spray your galvanized seed beads with clear Krylon before working with them so you can help seal that unstable finish. There are a couple of good ways to do this. For Czech seed beads, hang the hank outside (in a tree, on a pole, etc.). Spray the hank and shake it, spray and shake, then let dry. For loose Japanese seed beads, place a handful in a plastic baggie, spray the Krylon inside the bag (no huffing!), shake the bag thoroughly, and then dump them out on waxed paper to let dry.

-Once your piece is finished, consider dipping it in clear acrylic floor polish. This doesn't mean the finish won't rub off over time, since the polish can wear away, too, but it will sure help. (Learn how to "dip" by clicking here.)

Permanent finish

-Contrary to the name, "permanent finish" galvanized seed beads don't really have a permanent finish, but they are much more stable than their predecessors. Oh, I've heard of red-wine drinking, garlic eating, nervous Nellie types stripping the finish off of these when they wear the pieces they stitched with them, but I'm at least a couple of those adjectives, and haven't had any problems so far. In any case, it's not a bad idea to seal them with the techniques described above, especially that dipping technique.

-I've found the coating of this type of seed bead to be especially thick, so they often have plugged-up holes that aren't really worth spending the time to ream out. Just be sure to carefully cull your beads, choosing only those with wide holes, especially if the pattern requires many thread passes. (Save the thin-hole ones for stringing, or throw them over your shoulder for good luck!)

-Because of their extra-thick coating (even thicker than the galvanized type), these beads often look one size larger than how they're listed. For instance, a size 11 seed bead might look like a size 10. It's not a huge deal, but if you're working on a pattern that uses a non-metallic bead and you interchange it with a permanent finish galvanized one, you may run into some sizing issues.

Want to learn more about using, interchanging, and substituting metallic beads? Melinda Barta is giving a really informative webinar this Friday, June 21 at noon (Mountain Time) that will touch on this. In The Dos and Don'ts of Bead Substitutions, she'll discuss not only seed bead substitutions, but all kinds of bead similarities and differences. It's full of must-know information, and if you do any type of beadwork, do yourself a favor and sign up to save your spot.

What has been your experience with galvanized or permanent finish seed beads? Do you love them like I do? Share your thoughts here on Inside Beadwork Magazine.

Happy beading-

Jean Campbell

Senior editor, Beadwork magazine

It's Beading Contest Season!

2013-06-13T10:00:00Z

Laura McCabe's necklace,
2013 Saul Bell Award competition

It's the time of year for you to get your bead on! There are some great bead contests going on, and I love seeing the different styles and techniques used by artists all over the world!

Recently, Laura McCabe, a past Beadwork contributor, took second place for the beads category of the 2013 Saul Bell Design Award competition. This was the 13th year of the contest, in which 1 grand prize winner and 11 category winners were chosen from hundreds of entries. Laura's luxurious design included cylinder beads and crystal pearls in a decadent necklace pattern. Congratulations to Laura and all the winners! See more entries at saulbellaward.com.

This summer, the 2013 Battle of the Beadsmith rages on as 192 artists from 40 countries fight for the coveted title of battle winner--because that is all they will receive in this contest. Also known as "the contest where you win nothing," this contest offers notoriety to the winner as all hail to the new queen or king of beadweaving. Some of the beading community's toughest stitched for eight weeks to create their most imaginative original artworks yet--and they don't disappoint. The entrants are divided into three groups of 64 and randomly paired with another artist with whom they'll go head-to-head to start the elimination-style contest. You can gawk at the past years' spectacular entries and find updates for the current contest at www.facebook.com/groups/419636224777912/.

The Beadalon Design Contest 2013 has just been announced, and you have until December 31 to enter. The winner will receive a $1,000 Beadalon gift certificate and will be featured in a Beadalon magazine ad. Qualifying entries will include Beadalon Bead Stringing Wire for at least 50% of the project, and only stringing products from Beadalon may be used. Enter as many pieces as you wish! Check out guidelines at www.beadalon.com/designcontest2013.asp.

Last but not least, our very own Bead Star 2013 competition is underway, and our judges have been up to their eyeballs in entries this week. Our grand-prize winner will receive an all-expense paid trip to Bead Fest Philadelphia, and our first, second, and third place winners will receive more than $4,000 in total cash prizes. Entries were classified into the categories of crystals, glass, metals and wireworking, pearls, gemstones, and emerging artists--which is a brand new category this year. Also for the first time, beadweaving projects were accepted for entry and all winners will be published in both Beadwork and Jewelry Stringing magazines. Check out winners in the October/November 2013 issue of Beadwork and/or the Winter 2014 issue of Jewelry Stringing.

Good luck to all of you entering contests this year! What other contest do you participate in? Tell us about it in the comments section below!

Bead chic,

Kate Wilson
Project Editor

Hip Shade of Pink Taking Design Community By Storm

2013-06-06T10:05:00Z

Pinks and purples are among my favorite colors, so when I heard a podcast recently about "sheer rose" being the hot color of 2013, my ears pricked up. The podcast was from Planet Money, a radio program about what's going on in the global economy, so I wasn't expecting to be hearing about anything fashion or art related.

The Planet Money folks have been conducting a fiscal experiment to design and create their own t-shirt—all the way from the source for the cotton to the factory that makes it to the actual selling and distributing of the shirt. This episode of the podcast provided the background information about how they chose the color for the ladies' version of their t-shirt. To make a long story short (you can listen to the 17-minute Planet Money podcast if you want the full story), the t-shirt's color was inspired by a 1969 Frank Stella painting titled Tahkt-I-Sulayman Variation II, part of Stella's Protractor Series of paintings—multicolored concentric semi- and quarter circles arranged in boxes. Frank Stella is considered by the fashion industry to be a key artist of 2013. Here's a thumbnail of the painting:

So how did Stella and his 1960s paintings come to the forefront now? According to the people at the trend-forecasting companies that Planet Money interviewed, the violet shade of pink known as sheer rose and featured in Stella's paining has been working its way into our collective subconscious and conscious minds for the last couple of years.

It started with a new museum being built in Abu Dhabi and opening in 2015. The Louvre Abu Dhabi's fantastical architecture, along with the art it plans to display, is drawing worldwide attention from the design, art, and fashion communities. Stella's work will be on display, along with works from many other famous artists.

Creative directors of apparel companies, fashion houses, and fashion magazines are constantly on the lookout for the next new thing. Which museums are displaying big retrospectives? Which artists are coming back into style? For the last several years, Frank Stella has been hot, most likely because of Louvre Abu Dhabi's attention on his work. Upscale designers have been using shapes and colors from his paintings in clothes they design. Trend forecasters have been mentioning his work, which then showed up in briefing books at mass-market apparel companies and eventually made its way into "Spring 2013 Jockey International," a clothing-company catalog listing key artists of 2013. There Stella is, on the same page as paintings by Seurat, and there it is, sheer rose, in the Stella painting. Jockey International, the apparel company that Planet Money partnered with for its t-shirt project, has its finger on the pulse of "color hotness" and thus suggested sheer rose for Planet Money's shirt.

So there you have it—how sheer rose became the hip color for 2013 (notwithstanding Pantone's emerald green color of the year).

Has sheer rose worked its way into the beading community's consciousness? Looking at the most recent few issues of Beadwork, I'd say it has! Beadwork has many gorgeous jewelry projects that feature shades of sheer rose, and I show a few here. You can find instructions for these projects in your Beadwork back-issue library, or go to our online store to order print or digital individual issues. I've included links to each issue's print and digital ordering page for your convenience.

Do you already use this shade of pink in your work? Are you inspired to try out sheer rose? Tell us in the Comments section below.


Double Diamondback Bracelet, Alice Coelho, June/July 2013 - the rose colorway. Instructions are for the green colorway. To make the rose colorway, substitute these beads: 5 g galvanized silver size 15° seed beads (A); 9 g matte rose size 11° cylinder beads (B); 20 light rose 4mm crystal bicones (C).	Radiant Wheel Pendant, Sabine Lippert - June/July 2013

Aurora Pendant Necklace, Miriam Shimon, June/July 2013	Xs and Os Bracelet, Maria Teresa Moran, April/May 2013

Rosebud Rivolis, Sabine Lippert, February/March 2013

Order Beadwork June/July 2013 print edition
Order Beadwork June/July 2013 digital edition

Order Beadwork April/May 2013 print edition
Order Beadwork April/May 2013 digital edition

Order Beadwork February/March 2013 print edition
Order Beadwork February/March 2013 digital edition

~Linda Harty, associate editor, Beadwork

Stitch Pro: Threading the Needle

2013-05-30T09:23:00Z

There's always something to learn, isn't there? Even though you've been beading for decades, you can still learn a little something about your craft. And that little something might be about simply threading a needle.

I've been giving tips about needle-threading to my students for a long time. These tips include:

-Never do the cartoon-version of threading a needle by holding the needle out in front of you, biting your tongue, closing one eye, and aiming the thread end in the general direction of the needle! Instead, hold the thread between the thumb and forefinger of your non-dominant hand so just a speck of thread shows; place the needle eye on that speck with your dominant hand while you scooch (technical term) the thread through the eye.

-Wax the thread well, then use sharp scissors to cut the thread at an angle, making it easier to guide the thread through the hole.

-Employ chain-nose pliers to squoosh (another technical term) the end of the thread, making it very flat to mimic the needle hole's shape (which is oval, not round). This works especially well for braided beading thread, which can be beefy and round at the end after it's cut.

-Try using a needle threader.

But my latest advice is this: After too many frustrating attempts at threading a needle, just try turning it over so the other side of the eye faces up. Why might this work? I'll tell you: When needles are made in a factory, the eyes are punched with a machine. You might have to get out your microscopic lens to see the difference, but when they punch the hole, they've created a convex and a concave side. The concave side, since it's cupped, is naturally easier to thread because the hole holds the thread end in, helping guide the thread through.

Do you have other tips you'd like to share for threading needles? Do it right now, right here on the Inside Beadwork magazine blog!

Happy beading-

Jean Campbell

Senior editor, Beadwork magazine

What’s Your Favorite Odd-Count Peyote Turnaround?

2013-05-09T02:38:00Z

If you're familiar with Beadwork magazine then surely you're already aware of the versatility of peyote stitch. One of my favorite things about this stitch is that there are often several ways to achieve the same look, especially when it comes to odd-count turnarounds.

Personally, I'm a big fan of a thread-loop turnaround (see below). Or, if I feel the thread is building up on the side of the beadwork, I'll occasionally throw in a square-stitch turnaround. However, a project by Pamela Kearns in the June/July issue of Beadwork reminds me how great figure-eight turnarounds can be.

	You might ask yourself, "Why even bother with odd-count peyote when even-count is so easy to turn?" Pamela's Boho Bangle shows why: Some patterned strips of peyote call for an odd number of beads in order to be symmetrical.
	Regardless of which turnaround method you like most for odd-count peyote, here's how I recommend you start the first three rows: String an odd number of beads for Rows 1 and 2. Work Row 3 back across the work as usual with 1 bead in each stitch. Knot the working and tail threads together and pass back through the last bead added.
	Work Row 4 as usual with 1 bead in each stitch, as shown here by the blue thread. Option 1 Now here is where you have a decision to make. To form a thread-loop turnaround at the end of Row 5, follow the red thread in this illustration: After stringing the final bead in the row, pass the needle under previous threads on the outside edge of the work, and then pass back through the last bead added. Don't pull too tight or the work can begin to curve on this side.
	Option 2 To end Row 5 with a figure-eight turnaround, string the final bead of the row and then weave through beads in a figure-eight pattern to exit back through the last bead added, as shown by the green thread in this illustration.

For Pamela's complete peyote-stitch pattern and instructions for securing peyote-stitch bands to Regaliz licorice leather, don't miss the June/July 2013 issue of Beadwork.

Play around to find your preference, then share with us here your favorite approach to navigating odd-count peyote turnarounds.

Have fun!
Melinda
Editor, Beadwork

Stitch Pro: Set Yourself a Deadline

2013-05-02T09:48:00Z

I received a note from a beader on Facebook this week asking, "...what are you up to these days?" Boy...other than working a full-time job, fostering a loving relationship, preparing for yet another move (we bought a house!), dealing with an emptying nest as my son graduates high school and leaves home for the military and college, and then coping with the everyday drama of my teenage daughter, hmmm... not much!

I'm pretty sure the person who asked the question was wondering what I've been beading lately, though, and that's a little more difficult to answer. As a technical editor for Beadwork magazine, I bead in my head all day long, but like so many of my friends and colleagues, I find it difficult to carve out creative time in which I can get some actual beading done. That is, unless I have a deadline.

Deadlines are often the only way I get anything done, especially beading. They put a fire under my buns and get me to clear my schedule, making creativity a priority. I figure I snap to it when it comes to a deadline for a couple reasons: First, when someone asks me to do a piece, I feel I'm beholden to them; that person is counting on me to get the piece finished. It's kind of like having an exercise buddy--you exercise more when you have a friend to do it with. I envision the person who gave me the deadline and I as an artistic team. In that same "Go Team" vein is the second reason I like deadlines--it's a fun challenge! I turn this challenge into a sort of creative game, complete with a game board (my detailed to-do list); small celebrations when I cross things off the to-do list (i.e., I get to put a load of laundry in...I know, that sounds lame, but that's how I get any housework done, too!); and a big reward when I'm finished (this often includes chocolate). For me, turning the deadline into a game makes working on the piece something enjoyable that I can look forward to every day.

Luckily I've got a new deadline approaching. I've been invited to participate in the "Toho Challenge". Team Toho sent me (and several other designers) this beautiful kit of beads from which I need to make a masterpiece (no pressure). If it's any good, it'll be on display at the Bead & Button show next month. Can I do it by May 24? We'll see! I'll be sure to keep you apprised of my progress.

Do deadlines work for you like they work for me? If not, how do you manage to carve creative time into your schedule? Please share your tips and tricks below so we can all benefit.

Happy beading-

Jean Campbell

Senior editor, Beadwork magazine

Getting Published: A Path to Beaded Bliss

2013-04-26T17:33:00Z

"I think I may have startled a co-worker with my celebratory Snoopy dance!"

"It is my birthday this week, and you just gave me the best present I could ask for!"

"You have just made my week, how exciting!"

"This is very exciting news. It feels great when people admire my beadwork, and having it accepted for publication is truly special."

"I'm so thrilled that my project has been accepted by Beadwork magazine. I've been a subscriber for years, and it's a dream come true to have one of my projects featured in the magazine!"

As you've probably guessed, these are reactions I've received when sending acceptance notifications to people who've submitted their beadwoven projects for consideration in Beadwork. I love this part of my job and am grateful every day to work with such an upbeat, creative community. Beaders are some of the most courteous, kind, and inspiring beings on the planet—and if you're reading this, you're no doubt one of them.

If you've been dreaming of seeing one of your original beaded jewelry designs published, why not submit it to Beadwork for consideration? The process is easy and painless: Simply email us a few words describing your project, the materials you used, and perhaps the idea or inspiration behind it, along with a photo (or a few photos).

We'll let you know our decision within about one to three weeks, so you won't have to wait and wonder for long. Here's an insider's tip for increasing your project's chances of being accepted: Currently, we receive a lot of bracelet submissions. Enhance your acceptance odds by submitting a necklace or earring design.

For detailed information about how to submit, what we look for in designs, and what the process is like if your work is accepted for publication, download Beadwork's submissions guidelines.

Maybe the next person doing a Snoopy dance will be you!

~Linda Harty, associate editor, Beadwork

Stitching Durable Beadwork: How to Create and Care for Lasting Jewelry

2013-04-18T02:26:00Z

In today's blog I share one of my favorite sidebars from my book Mastering Peyote Stitch, plus a few extra tips and techniques that aren't included in the book.

Follow these simple stitching tips and care guidelines to keep the jewelry you devoted hours into making looking brand new. Don't forget to share this information with any non-beaders you gift or sell your work to; they might not be as familiar with the amazing yet often delicate architecture behind beadwoven jewelry.

--Never stitch with a damaged thread. If you see a thread fray, replace it immediately to avoid weak spots. Wax and thread conditioner can help prevent fraying, but be sure to inquire about its archival quality with its manufacturer.

--Keep the work flexible. Beads can break easily when pieces made with too tight tension are manipulated. After every two or three rows or rounds worked, very gently twist and turn the beadwork to keep it a bit malleable.

--End your thread after completing intricate components and before starting clasps. If a thread does break between components or at a connection point, you'll be left with an easy repair.

--Store pieces flat or rested on neck forms. Hanging a beaded rope or strap on a small jewelry hook can stretch the thread that joins the beads beyond repair. Resist the urge to keep all of your beautiful beadwork on display. Instead, keep them dust free in a drawer or in a nice jewelry roll like the one shown here from Etsy. Or, better yet, splurge for a glass china cabinet.

--When wearing your jewelry remember, "last thing on, first thing off" to keep makeup, perfume, and hairspray off the beads.

--Always prestretch nylon threads. Otherwise, the thread will stretch after you finish, resulting in loose beads.

--Double your thread when stitching crystals and other sharp-holed beads. This way, if one thread breaks, you'll have a little more time to repair the damage before the second breaks and you lose your bead(s).

--Reinforce, reinforce, and reinforce areas joined by magnets so they can withstand repetitive pulling.

--Avoid glue. Even the best glues can become brittle, discolor, or deteriorate over time. Almost all beadwoven pieces can be made with just a needle and thread.

--There are two theories when it comes to thread length: 1) Use long thread to reduce the number of knots in the work; knots can create weak points. 2) Use short length of threads to cut down on tangling and the wear and tear caused by passing through beads multiple times. Personally, I'm in the second camp, but please find what works for you.

--Diligently cull your beads. Sharp-edged beads lead to thread breakage so it's best to avoid them.

--Never trim a thread next to a knot; it will always find a way to come undone. Instead, weave back through several beads after tying the knot and before ending the thread.

--When stitching crystals, work the first pass with light tension with the goal of setting the beads in place. Then, work a second round, securely stitching them in place. Always pull the thread straight away from the bead to avoid cutting it on the side of the hole.

--Exposed threads=weak points. Consider working picots (as shown here; see Beadwork magazine for more how-tos) or other embellishments along the edges of flat peyote to conceal and protect exposed threads.

--Be sure your thread size is appropriate for the job at hand. Thin threads may break too easily. Thick thread may make your work rigid or fill your beads too quickly, which prevents you from making multiple passes.

--When zipping together two peyote edges, pull the entire length of the thread through the work after passing through just two or three beads. If you make small stitches down the entire edge and then try to pull the rest of the thread through, you'll put unneeded strain on the remaining thread.

What other great techniques do you use for protecting your jewelry for future generations?

Have fun!
Melinda
_______
Melinda Barta
Editor, Beadwork magazine

6 MORE bead shapes! Meet the new Bricks, Rullas, Pyramids, BeadStuds, Rizos, and Long Drops

2013-03-28T02:50:00Z

I loved Jean Campbell's post last week on the difference between Superduo and Twin beads so much that I thought I'd follow up this week with a few more of the new shaped beads. If you missed Jean's in-depth look at two-hole seed beads, see her post here.

Here are the 6 newest shapes to come across my desk:

	Bricks These thick, rectangular, Czech pressed-glass beads are essentially smaller versions of the flat, 2-hole CzechMate Tiles-think of ½ of a CzechMate, with less rounded corners. They measure 6x3x3mm, with two 1mm-large holes that are about 2mm apart. The strands I've received are quite consistent in size and don't require much, if any, culling. I love working flat herringbone stitch with these beads. The beads won't angle to resemble classic herringbone, but a herringbone thread path quickly joins them. I also love working flat peyote stitch with these beads.
	Rullas Rullas are very similar to bricks because they also have 2 holes and are similar in size. However, their cylindrical profile is what sets the two apart. Rullas are 5mm wide and 3mm tall, with the two 1mm-large holes about 1.5mm apart. As with the bricks, I've found they are best suited for herringbone and peyote stitches, but this shouldn't deter you from playing around with them in other stitches. They tend to flop around a bit with flat right-angle weave, so plan on adding a few nets of embellishment beads to keep them in place.
	BeadStuds What do you get when you sit a pyramid on top of a flat, two-hole CzechMate Tile? A BeadStud! These fun beads are 12mm square at the base and about 9mm tall. The point of the pyramid is only on one side, so be mindful of this if your design will allow the beads to flip around. Pyramids I'm sure you've seen the many new bead spikes on the market. Give a spike 4 sides and what do you have? A pyramid! Measuring in at 7x11mm, their bases are wide and stable, making them perfect atop a bead-embroidery foundation. The 1mm-large hole sits about 3mm above the base of the bead, so plan to bead around the base of the pyramid to hide any thread left exposed. I would expect these beads to become available in more sizes, if they aren't already.
	Rizos These new embellishment beads, designed by Beadwork Designer of the Year Sabine Lippert, are elongated drop beads shaped like a grain of rice with one hole at one end. They measure 6mm long and are 3mm wide on one side and 2mm wide on the other side. I've found them to be very consistent in size. They are produced in the Czech Republic. I love the way the team at Beads by Blanche describes how this bead was born, read the charming love story here.
	Long drops Miyuki also has a new longer drop bead. Simply called "long drops," these beads are 5mm long and 3mm wide. They are more bulbous at the end than Rizos. I've found the top width of these beads (at the base of the hole) to be a bit inconsistent, so some culling is needed.
	Want to see these beads in action? Stay tuned for more information on my newest video workshop Beading with Shaped Beads: Tilas, Superduos, Peanuts, and More. In this DVD I discuss today's most popular shaped beads, including those shown above, and how to use them successfully in beadweaving projects. Download the workshop starting April 8th or purchase the DVD April 30th at interweavestore.com. Follow along as I explain and demonstrate the techniques that work best with each bead shape, plus watch me share tips for hiding threads, maintaining proper tension, and more. Discover which similar beads are interchangeable and which aren't.

Please share your experiences with the new shaped beads here. The possibilities are endless.

Have fun!
Melinda

Editor, Beadwork magazine

Stitch Pro: Twins vs. Super Duos

2013-03-21T09:07:00Z

I had a bead shop owner friend call me a few weeks ago, asking about the differences between Twins and Super Duos, two brand names for the two-hole oval seed beads that are all the craze among beaders right now. She said she'd called around to vendors, artists, and fellow shop owners, but she didn't feel like she was getting clear answers. My friend isn't an off-loom beadworker, so she didn't have first-hand experience with the beads, but as a shop owner she wanted to support her customers with knowledge and the right product. Makes sense!

I gave her the information and she ordered her stock accordingly, but her phone call got me thinking...maybe my shop-owner buddy isn't the only one who is confused about the differences in these two beads?

So I thought I should share what I know. And just to be sure, I called my buddy Steven Weiss at the BeadSmith (one of the largest wholesale companies in the U.S. that sells both types of these beads to shops) to make sure my information is correct. I also had a nice email conversation on the topic with Sabine Lippert, a fantastic designer and teacher, and one of the first to work with these beads. (Thanks, Sabine, for sharing these clear photos with us!)

TWINS

Country of origin: Czech Republic (created by Preciosa)

Size: 5mm long by 3mm wide by 3mm by 2.5mm deep at center

Shape: Flat oval with slight taper at ends

Material: crystal base; many colors are created with coatings

Consistency: Inconsistent in size; must be culled

Weight: About 18 beads per gram

Price: A quick online scan of prices today shows that they run about $2 - $11 for tubes of 300; price difference depends on color

Notes

-Some designers like the inconsistency of these beads to make more organic-looking designs. The size variance is also helpful for forming increases/decreases in sculptural work.

-These beads tend to be slightly thinner in the middle, so don't work as a substitute for Super Duos.

-Because many of these beads are coated, they often have holes that are plugged shut with coating. You may also want to double-check the stability of the coating for wear.

-Sabine explained that these are rocaille beads (made like Czech seed beads), and that's why they aren't very uniform. She also noted that the company that makes Twins (Preciosa) has also marketed a pressed-glass version.

SUPER DUOS

Country of origin: Czech Republic

Size: 5mm long by 3.5mm wide by 3mm deep at center

Shape: Flat oval with pronounced taper, almost a dimple at ends

Material: glass base; many colors are created within the glass as opposed to coated

Consistency: Very consistent in size; very little, if any, culling is needed

Weight: About 15 beads per gram

Price: A quick online scan of prices today shows that they run about $3 - $12 for tubes of 300; price difference depends on color

Notes

-These beads are very consistent, so work well for methodical, technical designs. There is really no culling necessary.

-These beads tend to be slightly fatter in their middles, so don't work as a substitute for Twins.

-The color of these beads is stable because most of the beads are colored within the glass, not as a coating.

-Sabine explained that these beads are made in a press; thus the uniformity.

What do you know about Twins vs. Super Duos? Please share your experiences here so we can all learn together.

Happy beading-

Jean Campbell

Senior editor, Beadwork magazine

Brand New: Quick & Easy Beadwork

2013-03-14T10:00:00Z

Desert Thistle Earrings by Kristen Winter
Feb/March 2013 Beadwork

We're so excited to announce that we're now accepting submissions for our first-ever Quick & Easy Beadwork, a special issue from the editors of Beadwork magazine! Many of today's hottest fashion trends incorporate stylish beadwoven jewelry that can be worn every day--and can be made in a day or less. And that's just what we're bringing to you. This issue will include pieces that beaders of all experience levels can enjoy--from
DIY-ers who've never beaded before and are looking for a new craft to experienced designers who'd like a quick weekend project to wear to a party or whip up as a gift. We want to see simple techniques (peyote, herringbone, brick, right-angle weave, and/or square stitches) used in fresh and interesting ways that are fun to make and wear. This is your chance to invoke your inner fashionista and put your beading needles to work!

Swingin' Bugle Cuff by Cathi Tessier
June/July 2012 Beadwork

Keep in mind: We do not accept projects that have been previously published in books and magazines or on websites (even Etsy). If any portion of your submission has been published previously, please let us know when and where. Also, your submission MUST represent your original work--it is both unethical and undesirable to submit a project that you have learned or copied from someone else.

Submissions deadline: We are accepting emailed submissions now through March 25, 2013, and we may request that you send in the actual piece before a final decision is made. Visit beadworkmagazine.com/submissions for complete submission guidelines.

We so look forward to seeing your creations!

Bead chic,

Kate Wilson
Project Editor

My 4 favorite blogs from Inside Jewelry Stringing Magazine

2013-03-07T03:11:00Z

After you read our blog, do you skip on over to the Inside Jewelry Stringing blog? If you're not already doing so, I highly recommend you check out what our sister magazine is up to. The Jewelry Stringing editors blog three days a week, so you're bound to learn a new technique or hear about a new trend each time you visit.

Here are my 4 favorite blogs from Inside Jewelry Stringing Magazine:

	1) Beadweaving Entries Now Accepted for Bead Star Did you know this year's Bead Star contest is accepting-in fact, strongly encouraging-beadweaving entries? With more than $4,000 in cash prizes, you'd be silly not to enter! Plus, one grand-prize winner will receive an all-expense-paid trip to Bead Fest Philadelphia, our most popular Bead Fest event, which will be held August 23 to 25, 2013! The deadline for entries is May 24th, so you still have plenty of time to work on your creations. Get more info on prizes, contest rules, and the 6 inspiring entry categories here.
	2) How to Choose A Color Palette For Your Jewelry Designs At Beadwork we get a lot of questions about how to choose colors that work well together when designing jewelry. Editorial Director Danielle Fox found a great online tool for making color palettes. Simply upload a photo that you've taken, then sit back and watch the tool pull out the dominant colors. Check out Danielle's blog here for some color inspiration, and a link to the online tool.
	3) Editors Share Their Ergonomic Beading Tips This is personally one of my favorite topics as I often suffer from sore hands and wrists. From typing to lifting a growing toddler to beading, my hands get a lot of wear and tear. Here are some great tips to help avoid the pain, collaborated by Managing Editor Debbie Blair.
	4) How to Find Free Technique Help Don't forget about the wealth of information we have out there to help you with all of your beading questions. In this blog, Danielle shows you where on beadingdaily.com you can find helpful how-tos, illustrations, and videos. Danielle explains how to find techniques specific to stringing and wireworking, but beadweaving techniques can be found in the same locations.

Have fun connecting with our friends over at Jewelry Stringing!

Are there are blog topics you'd like us to cover? Tell us what you have in mind below.

Have fun!
Melinda

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Melinda Barta

Editor, Beadwork magazine

Stitch Pro: In Search of the Perfect Clasp

2013-02-28T11:00:00Z

I often feel like the Jason of beadweaving in search of the perfect (golden fleece) clasp. Does it exist? Oh, there are lots of pretty toggle, box, and slide clasps, but I just haven't found one that brings the ends of a beaded piece of jewelry together in a tight, neat way. Just think about it...how many times have you had to resort to 2-part snaps or dress hooks, designing your piece so the ends overlap? Or you've done some kind of crazy maneuver to attach to a whole line of hidden magnetic clasps? Tubular slide clasps are great, and just about perfect, but there's that bit between the beadwork and the loops that just bugs me...it's a real visual interruption.

Yes, a it's a nerdy frustration, but one that keeps me on the lookout for the perfect clasp. For example, when I was in Tucson a few weeks ago, I met up with the folks at TierraCast, who showed off their fabulous new leather findings. My metalsmith brain went wild for the rivets and other findings, but the beadweaver in me was especially attracted to this Z-shaped piece:

It got me thinking, "I wonder how this might work as a beadwork clasp?"

When I got home, I spent some time in my bead studio and stitched up a design with rullas (another new find in Tucson--2-hole barrel-shaped beads!). I made the design so it included a straight end to which I could attach a clasp. I square-stitched a 7-bead-wide, 6-row-long strip off this straight end, passed it through the closed half of the Z-shaped finding (I used an antiqued piece here...very pretty with my dark indigo/AB rullas), and square-stitched Row 1 to Row 6:

Now for the other side. I worked up all kinds of ways to get around that bend and mostly ended up tearing out each attempt. What made the most sense was to actually get out the pliers and slightly straighten the bend in the finding. (The high-quality pewter used in TierraCast products will allow for this, but you don't want to go overboard...bending metal too much can make it brittle.)

Next, I square-stitched a 7-bead-wide, 7-row-long loop at the other end of the bracelet. Once you slide the loop onto the finding's bent piece, you've got a nice connection! And it's a clasp that you can easily put on and take off yourself.

It's not quite the golden fleece of clasps, but I'm pleased to find this new option because it's pretty dang close. I think it's got a lot of potential for embellishment, too; I'm going to experiment with decorating that diagonal bar in the center to personalize the clasp even more.

Which kind of clasps do you like for beadweaving? Have you found the perfect clasp? Please share what you know with all of us!

Happy beading-

Jean Campbell

Senior editor, Beadwork

Raw Gemstones and Druzy Jewelry

2013-02-21T11:00:00Z

My two favorite fashion trends right now (it changes often) are the raw gemstone and druzy components showing up in jewelry!

Last weekend I decided to bezel an agate druzy bead with gold to create a new pendant for myself--and I've received a shower of compliments! I used 1.5mm gold cubes for 5 rows of tubular peyote stitch, then 2 rows using gold size 11/0 seed beads around the front and back of the bezel, all stitched around an agate druzy bead from Bead Trust (similar agate druzy pendants still available).

A druzy, also spelled drusy, is the cavity of a gemstone lined with crystals. One can be found when a stone is fractured, or along the vein of minerals in the earth. It can occur on many different minerals, but in jewelry I've seen quartz, amethyst, and agate druzies used the most. If you've ever visited a natural rock or geology store, no doubt you've seen druzy geodes.

I prefer the look of these rugged, raw, unpolished gemstones to that of smooth, polished pieces because they look like they're covered in glitter. In jewelry, I love seeing them alongside bright metallic gold or silver-and paired with a white t-shirt, jeans, and black blazer for an everyday look. Or attached to a long chain and draped around the neck over a button-up and pencil skirt for the office. Whatever look I'm going for, there's a raw gemstone or druzy to wear with it.

Here are a few of my favorites:

I love these amethyst slice druzy earrings from Magic Loot Designs. The gold just lines the druzy and allows for viewing of the rock down to the core of the geode.

I just ordered this beauty for myself from Beading on a Budget (sorry, it's SOLD!). It's a gold-plated aqua quartz druzy pendant. I'll hang it from a long gold rope chain and layer it with other gold necklaces.

These silver druzies from Akya would make an ideal pair of earrings--either studs or drops. I've been drooling over them for days.

And these are the raw gemstone sticks we just got in the office to play with! The top 2 strands are from Eagle Gemstone. The bottom strand is raw quartz sticks I ordered from Happy Mango Beads for my next project. I can't wait to try them out!

What are you planning for your next project? Will you incorporate raw gemstones or druzies into your designs? Tell us about it in the comments section below!

Bead chic,

Kate Wilson
Project Editor

Beadlepoint, Beadlepoint, Beadlepoint

2013-02-14T03:30:00Z

Does this blog's title make you think, "Beetlejuice, Beetlejuice, Beetlejuice"? Wondering what this has to do with beads? Well, for starters, Beadwork Senior Editor Jean Campbell and Editorial Director Danielle Fox brought me a few Beadlepoint Stitchable Phone Cases from the Tucson bead shows. Secondly, the technique that the cases require gets me thinking about old times (hence the reference to the 1980s movie).

Many of you might already know that I started at Interweave working for one of our sister publications, PieceWork magazine. In short, PieceWork exposes readers to the rich history behind needlecrafts, plus features many contemporary projects inspired by historical items.

Though I love many of the needlepoint pieces we've featured in PieceWork, I've never really spent much time needlepointing. As a child, I cross-stitched dozens of tree ornaments and presents for my grandparents, but needlepoint was never part of the mix. One of my grandmas had several stitched-plastic-canvas tissue-box covers (you know the kind I'm talking about), so looking back I'm surprised she didn't teach me.

So now that needlepoint's on my mind, what could be better than combining it with beads? The Beadlepoint cases, from The BeadSmith, inspired me to give the combination a try.

Here are a few tips I came across while working the first few rows of my design:

--Don't start your thread with a knot at the end, as you might pull it up through the holes in the back of the case. Instead, pass the needle up through the case from the back leaving a short tail, string 1 bead, pass back down through the case in an adjacent hole that's diagonal to the one just exited, and then knot the tail and working threads.

--To avoid gaps in the design and achieve the diagonal look that's signature of needlepoint, always stitch in the same direction, diagonally from one hole to the next. All of the bead holes will point the same direction.

--Chevron patterns are so popular right now, so I gave one a go here. However, the case comes with 2 cute designs: one with hearts and one with an owl. When working your own design on a lighter-colored case, I assume you could color it in using washable markers.

--I used permanent galvanized seed beads, thinking they might hold up better than unfinished glass beads in case the phone is dropped. The beads are from the "carnival multi perm. galvanized" mix from Beyond Beadery.

--You may have to occasionally flip the case over in order to find the correct hole to pass back up through. The holes on the back of the case are smaller than the holes on the front.

--A bead needs to sit over each crosshair of the grid, which takes a little time getting used to, so be patient with your first few rows. Also, these crosshairs can be hard to see, so be sure to have good lighting.

--If you need to travel from one side of the case to the next, pass under the threads on the back to avoid long thread loops. Also do this when trying off threads.

--The package says to use size 15° seed beads, but here I used size 11°s.

--When the beads fall out of line of the pattern, simply push them into shape. The following rows will hold them in place.

Now I have to confess that this case won't even fit my phone, but it's never too early to get started on a holiday gift!

Have fun,
Melinda

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Melinda Barta

Editor, Beadwork