3 Tips for Strong Beadwork

re: 3 Tips for Strong Beadwork

KipperCat — Sun, 20 Dec 2009 20:22:12 GMT

I've never used either product, but a Google search revealed both "Future Floor Wax" and "Pledge with Future Shine" available for sale. I don't know if some is just slightly older stock or if it's two products.

I like the idea of the wire through the looser spirals!

re: 3 Tips for Strong Beadwork

MelindaB@14 — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 22:31:16 GMT

The name is now "Pledge with Future Shine"... hope that helps.

re: 3 Tips for Strong Beadwork

JoniS@5 — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 12:00:03 GMT

Is the BRAND name actually Future? The only thing I can find with Future has a brand name of Pledge. Is this what your are suggesting? I'm not attempting to be critical, I just can't find Future Brand wax in my area.

re: 3 Tips for Strong Beadwork

prudyfry — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 13:55:38 GMT

I use the Future floor wax (or any other one that says "dries clear" when you can't get Future). I soak the piece for a few moments, drain it on a paper towel and gingerly wipe off the Future from the exposed bead surfaces. I lay the piece on some waxed paper to dry. It's marvelous for so many things: I buy Fireline in crystal clear. I also have an arsenal of permanent marker ink pens to color the crystal clear to match my project. After pulling the Fireline between my marker and a paper towel to color and dry a bit, I pull the Fireline between a paper towel wet with the Future - - - the color stays put and doesn't come off on your hands as you are working.

re: 3 Tips for Strong Beadwork

Dawn@122 — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 21:20:03 GMT

Using good quality high strength thread is important - I really like KO thread (abrasion/tangle resistant thread, which can be knotted tightly) & Fireline. I use Beadalon wire guardians to protect high wear clasps & use seperate thread to make & join my beaded toggles/clasps. The extra effort pays off! Fray Check goes yellow/brown with age so definitely don't use it on anything that you plan to be wearing in a few years time. I use GS-Hypo glue on my knots - it's got a precision applicator but would use clear nail varnish if I had any!!!

re: 3 Tips for Strong Beadwork

kose2 — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 22:46:00 GMT

I also use clear nail polish to dab at the and of mi work and also where i connesct a new thread.Future floor wax is this wax the only one you can use??I don't have it here on the island(CuracaoNeth. ANTILLES) tKS VM FOR YOU TIPS

re: 3 Tips for Strong Beadwork

AletaBeadz — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 22:45:50 GMT

I like using clear nail polish for knots; it seems to hold up well. But I will have to try the Future floor stuff. The other thing about the nail polish is: it's portable! I can pack it with my other bead stuff and go to my bead group. (My beads go with me everywhere, except to bed with me and that's next) :)

re: 3 Tips for Strong Beadwork

MaryL@114 — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 22:25:13 GMT

I mainly make bead embroidered pendants. I use a series of loops for a "bail". Instead of tread I use Fireline for the loops. After I finish them I go back through the loops to strengthen them. I started doing this after the thread broke in the loops - fortunately it was a piece that I made for myself!

re: 3 Tips for Strong Beadwork

TDKG — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:52:11 GMT

I have used Future on polymer clay for years with great success. I don't find that it yellows a bit, although I do heat my finished pieces at about 200F for about 10 minutes. I will experiment with Future and heat treating with my beads. Thank you!

re: 3 Tips for Strong Beadwork

MimiM@7 — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:39:18 GMT

I've used the floor polish trick when making snowflake ornaments, etc. for the Christmas tree. It does stiffen things and usually colorless. But, if you're using anything with an AB or some other special finish, it's going to block much/most of that effect. And with regard to the nail polish, I've been using it for years with no ill effects. The thread (Nymo) is nylon so there's no cotton to "rot".

re: 3 Tips for Strong Beadwork

Gill Newman — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:11:26 GMT

I was recently critised during a workshop (by another student) for using clear nail varnish to dap on end thread when finishing off my work. This was how I was advised to do it by my teacher when I first started beading. The oher student in the workshop said that this method rots the cotton over a period of time. She uses "Fray-check" I think she said. Would appreciate other's views.. Thanks for Beading Daily - it's great. Gill

re: 3 Tips for Strong Beadwork

nima2 — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 18:54:07 GMT

When adding a new thread in the middle of a project, I find that after making the knot, it helps to go back a bit and make a few half-hitched knots , then retrace my steps to the point where the thread was added,before adding new beads and continuing. Also, it is helpful to make a sailors knot instead of a square knot, it is more secure.

re: 3 Tips for Strong Beadwork

Diane@289 — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 17:43:52 GMT

I don't know if this would work on beading thread, but I know it works nicely to smooth out, polish and protect wire. I clean wire with NuFinish car polish which is a polymer rather than a wax. It might work on thread, but I've never tried it. It works really well on copper wire that I buy from the metal recycling place near me. I usually soak the recycled copper wire in white vinegar and water first, then wipe it off and polish with the NuFinish.

re: 3 Tips for Strong Beadwork

Mary Phillips — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 17:15:20 GMT

When doing looser spirals (like the Russian Spiral), I like to weave either a heavy Fireline or .019 coated bead wire through the center after completing the spiral. The bead wire has the extra benefit of being something you can attach the clasp to rather than attaching to the delicate spirals. You can also control the natural "stretch" of a spiral this way as well.