How to Choose the Right Wire Gauge

re: How to Choose the Right Wire Gauge

deirdrenel2@aol.com — Sat, 21 Apr 2012 13:24:47 GMT

Thanks so much for this. It's the first time I've found all this information in one place!

re: How to Choose the Right Wire Gauge

ChainOfBeauty — Sat, 07 Apr 2012 17:32:22 GMT

I have used 24 gauge wire to make chainmaille, but I don't recommend it except for very tight weaves with little rings. The wire just isn't strong enough to withstand much pressure, and the rings may pull open. 22 gauge is as thin as I like to go. Most commonly, I use 20 gauge or heavier.

When choosing the wire gauge for making chainmaille jewelry, we also need to consider the desired Aspect Ratio (the ratio between the wire gauge and the inner diameter of the ring). The AR determines how dense and tight the rings will be. A lower AR makes a tighter weave, and a lower AR makes a looser weave.

For example, if I want to make a byzantine chain with an AR of 3.7 and an inner diameter of 3 mm, I need to select the right wire gauge. In this case, I have to use a 20 gauge wire: 3mm / 3.7 AR = 0.81mm (0.81mm = 20 ga)

Once I know what AR I need for a certain weave, I can change the gauge and ring inner diameter to make a chain of the same proportions.

For example, if I want to make the same chain with approximately the same proportions, but using 4mm inner diameter rings, I'll need an 18 gauge wire: 4mm / 3.7 AR = 1.08mm (1.08 is closer to 18 gauge than 17 gauge in diameter. 18 gauge wire is 1.02 mm, just a hair thinner than the 1.08 I need, so the chain will be slightly looser, but not enough to make a difference.)

The point is that the choice of gauge often depends on the ring size and desired aspect ratio. I got tired of doing the math myself, so I built an Excel spreadsheet calculator. (You can get it here: chainofbeauty.wordpress.com/chainmaille-resources )

If I know the gauge and inner diameter, it gives me the AR.

If I know the inner diameter and AR, it tells me what gauge to use.

And if I know the gauge and AR, it tells me what size ring to make.

Chainmaille is lots of fun. I hope this helps people choose the wire gauge they need.

re: How to Choose the Right Wire Gauge

morningbird64 — Mon, 14 Nov 2011 18:56:56 GMT

I want to start making my own clasps for loom beaded bracelets. Which gauge wire would be the best to make a strong clasp?

re: How to Choose the Right Wire Gauge

Robin@137 — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 14:04:19 GMT

This is a great article! I'm having trouble finding a wire gauge like the one depicted in the article - any ideas?

re: How to Choose the Right Wire Gauge

Marie St. Claire — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 18:13:38 GMT

I try to make sure I nerver run out of 18 or 20g sterling wire. The 20g is substantial enough to hold curves but delicate enough to use for long, elegant earring wire. It also does well in a wrapped loop. The 18g is great for clasps and for using as a core wire in projects involving coils. It's also a great weight for jump rings. whereas the 20g is a little too flimsy for this. If I've used deadsoft wire for jump rings, as a precaution I open the ring and then twist it to open position in the other direction once or twice. Coiling the wire around the mandrel provides some work hardening, but this technique ensures that the jump ring will never open unexpectedly. I would never use jumprings for linking or for hanging a pendant on a chain unless I make sure it is strong enough to stay closed. That way, I know my jewelry won't come apart or even worse, become lost because of a weak jump ring.

re: How to Choose the Right Wire Gauge

Guadalupe@3 — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 14:44:58 GMT

Thank you sooo much for this information.