8 Easy Steps for Making Resin Jewelry

Feb 10, 2010
Jean Campbell Spacer 10x10 pixels Resin Bezeling Trick  
I do a lot of beadwork: tiny needles, thin thread, and infinitesimal beads. I do this at home, of course, but sometimes also in public. If you BIP (bead in public), too, you know the activity makes people very curious and usually draws comments like, “Wow, you must be patient” and “Jeez, that’s pretty obsessive.” True . . . and true! But that doesn’t mean I’m a generally patient, obsessive person. Heck no. I like to be instantly gratified as much as the next gal. When I’m feeling that way, I pull out my more crafty jewelry-making supplies.

This week my instant gratification was inspired by Exploring Resin Jewelry-Making with Susan Lenart Kazmer. I was compelled to watch the whole thing after getting a sneak peek on Beading Daily, where Susan describes using spices and herbs, right from her kitchen, to color the material. How cool is that?

After watching, I got out some resin I received recently from Lisa Pavelka and tried Susan’s trick of filling an open-holed bezel by backing it with a piece of tape. It’s a great trick for making resin jewelry. Let me show you how.

Spacer 10x10 pixels 1: Cut a piece of thick, flat, strong tape (I used clear packing tape) and stick it securely to the back of the bezel.
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Resin 1 Spacer 10x10 pixels 2: Drop in some resin that fills the back of the bezel, covering the tape.
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Spacer 10x10 pixels 3: Use tweezers to carefully place an item on top of the resin. (I’m all about Steampunk these days, so I’m using watch parts here . . . )
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Spacer 10x10 pixels 4: Add more resin on top of the item.
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5: Add more items to the resin, carefully adjusting their positions with a toothpick.
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Spacer 10x10 pixels 6: Add more resin to completely cover the items so the resin is even with the top of the bezel. If necessary, remove any bubbles by pulling them to the side with a pin or by quickly passing a flame over the top of the bezel.
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Spacer 10x10 pixels 7: Let the resin dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Lisa’s resin requires UV light to dry, so I placed mine on the windowsill, and it dried in about 15 minutes.
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Spacer 10x10 pixels 8: Once dry, carefully peel the tape from the back of the bezel

Pretty easy, huh? Here is the video clip from Susan’s workshop DVD that got my resin jewelry making adventure started. The Exploring Resin Jewelry-Making DVD is definitely a good find.



What jewelry-making tricks do you use when you need instant gratification? Please share your ideas below!


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Comments

Sue@276 wrote
on Feb 10, 2010 9:02 AM

I love this, I want to learn to do resin work sooooo badly!!!

JetC3 wrote
on Feb 10, 2010 1:02 PM

Where do you get the resin & the bezels?

on Feb 10, 2010 2:23 PM

Jet-I'm using Lisa Pavelka's Magic-Glos (www.lisapavelka.com/Magic-Glos.asp) in the photos above--it's a great product. I found the bezel at Michael's, but you can also find a wide variety at your local bead shop. You could also try using a washer or a bolt or bottlecap! - Jean

lisapavelka wrote
on Feb 10, 2010 5:29 PM

Hi Jean, Thanks for playing with the Magic-Glos. I'm glad you had fun with it.

I know that the bottle you received wasn't in the normal packaging which contains a deatil instruction sheet (This can also can be found posted on the website: www.lisapavelka.com along with a video tutorial on this product).

A very important detail that is listed that direct UV exposure by means of outdoor sunlight or a UV lamp is highly recommended. The product may not cure in many windowsills due to UV filtration added to newer (30 years or less) window glass. I'm so glad you had success with windowsill curing, but many people don't. Outdoors on a sunny day or in the UV cure lamp will also cure quicker. If I can help with any other tips or tricks let me know. Happy playing and it was so great seeing you last week in Tucson.

denny@8 wrote
on Feb 10, 2010 7:59 PM

Will this resin eventually turn yellow?

hjmartin wrote
on Feb 10, 2010 11:12 PM

What were you using for color when you said you were using the oils?

lisapavelka wrote
on Feb 11, 2010 4:24 PM

Hi Denny,

The product has been on the market for over three years, but there were two years of beta testing prior to that. In all honesty, I have piece that have remained crystal clear over that entire time and others that have yellowed. Yellowing is usually the result of one of four things:

1. Curing too long outside in direct sunlight (remember windowsill curing won't always work).

2. Leaving a cured piece exposed to natural UV light (sunlight) for long periods.

3. A chemical reaction with something that the gloss may be covering or mixed with.

4. Lastly, baking. Magic-Glos is the only resin I know of that is safe for low temp baking (230 - 275F). While baking won't harm the product or result in any toxic vapors, it will color shift the product yellow slightly. With some things like heavily pigmented colors and my foils, it actually intensifies the colors! If white or silver appear, this will result in a sepia tone effect. Not always a bad thing, especially if you're looking for a vintage look.    

With many of my first sample pieces being clear for over 5 years, I'd say that it's resistant to yellowing under the right conditions.

lisapavelka wrote
on Feb 11, 2010 4:28 PM

I'm not sure where the reference for "oils" comes in, but Magic-Glos can be tinted with Easy Cast resin dyes (from www.eti-usa.com). These should be used very sparingly. They will give the resin a translucent tint, but not opaque color. Adding dye can lengthen cure time. Too much dye can inhibit curing.

The product works great with glitter and granular inclusions such as embossing powder, mylar flakes, gold leaf, dried spices, ground incense and more! We are working to develop other coloring agents that will be compatible with Magic-Glos. If and when we are successful with this, news will be posted on my website (www.lisapavelka.com) and my blog (www.lisapavelka.typepad.com)

LibbyS4 wrote
on Feb 22, 2010 7:57 PM

I just love it!! I have been kind of looking at resin work of late. Thanks so much for sharing.

LibbyS.

on May 2, 2010 11:30 PM

Hi Jean,

I'm also a bead weaver, but I'm enamored with the whole resin phenomenon! I've been experimenting, and I wanted to share two things: 1) Don't use duct tape (OK maybe that's obvious?). The sticky silvery stuff comes off on the jewelry. 2) If you use an o-ring (like from plumbing) instead of a bezel, the resin disc that results pops right out. I'm not sure what to do with that second bit, but I think something will come of it. Thank you so much for posting these ideas!

Best regards,

Florence Turnour

PS Hi Lisa, the reference to oils is in the video clip. I used acrylic paint (less than a drop of paint in a tablespoon of resin)  in another brand of casting resin, and got spectacular colors, but it has a 24-72 hour curing time, so I'm not sure if it will actually set. Do you think your resin will tolerate that quantity of liquid added? I dipped a stick in the paint, scrapped most of the paint off the stick on the edge of the paint tube, and then used the stick to stir the resin. It is so hard to wait a couple of days to get the results; I'd like to try yours if I can color it.

SuzanneG@26 wrote
on Jan 17, 2011 1:08 PM

I've been playing around with several types and brands of resins.  I am most concerned with toxicity.....can you tell me what level of toxic side effects might be with the brand you are using????  Thanks

on Jan 18, 2011 9:38 AM

I've been using Ice Resin for the last year and it's wonderful.  It dries crystal clear and hard.  I took a resin class from Susan Lenart Kazmer several years ago...it was wonderful!  I recommend her video highly.  Her exploration in resin has opened a world of new ideas for using this product.

J A Harniss wrote
on Mar 3, 2011 11:33 AM

I am just beginning to make resin jewelry.  I would like to know where you can get the rubber silicone you use for making molds. thank you, jaharniss@msn.com

on Mar 14, 2011 2:46 AM

I am experimenting with a ready-to-use small bottle of resin, 3D Crystal Lacquer, which only says "let it dry between applications".   I let it dry, covered, inside the house for 24 hours but I've noticed that it doesn't get rock hard and shows a fingernail mark.   Anybody out there have a solution to this?  

on Jul 21, 2011 3:03 PM

Perhaps a silly question, but I need to know. I bought my resin supplies today from Hobby Lobby, but haven't had time to start it yet, and possibly for the better. What is the difference between resin and a bezel??!?!? I keep seeing the two terms, and I have NO idea what it means! Please help! Thanks Kristall!!

etsy.com Shop creationsbykristall

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marissamakes wrote
on Sep 12, 2011 6:38 PM

Hi Kristall, not a silly question at all!  In the photos above, the bezel is the open-backed component into which the watch gears are being set. Resin is the liquid material that fills the bezel and hardens when fully cured. I hope this helps!

WendyB640 wrote
on Oct 11, 2011 6:40 AM

Hi

I love to make jewellery using pieces of seaglass and have tried various resins/glues to set them in Patera bezels. However, nothing seems perfect, Judikins Diamond Glaze is great but has a milky look to it and when I found Magic Glos i was really pleased but each piece I have made so far gradually develops a misty look over a few weeks. ( I do use a UV lamp to set it as recommended) I can only assume it is a sort of chemical reaction with something in the sea glass? Does anyone else use sea glass and have they found a resin or glue that sets hard and perfectly clear permanently?

Thanks

alfie21cat wrote
on Jan 28, 2012 7:07 PM

can you make resin jewellery without a bezel or mold - I have see some sort of a mat on the market - how do I pour resin over a polymer clay pendant??

alfie21cat wrote
on Jan 28, 2012 7:07 PM

can you make resin jewellery without a bezel or mold - I have see some sort of a mat on the market - how do I pour resin over a polymer clay pendant??

highheels wrote
on Apr 19, 2012 10:22 PM

I also would like to know if you can use magic glos without a bezel. I would like to make a pendent with items in it but do not know what to use to pour it on. Does anyone have any ideas I amnew at this but have so many ideas in my mind I just need to know what to use. Thanks

highheels wrote
on Apr 19, 2012 10:22 PM

I also would like to know if you can use magic glos without a bezel. I would like to make a pendent with items in it but do not know what to use to pour it on. Does anyone have any ideas I amnew at this but have so many ideas in my mind I just need to know what to use. Thanks

luthienb wrote
on Mar 3, 2013 10:23 PM

I have been using the resin and I have a problem with bubbles in what I have made.  I have used a thin piece of metal to pull out bubbles when I first add the resin.  I then stick it under a black light (the box said a black light would work) I wait about 20 minutes and alot of times there are large bubbles in the work.  Can I wait a good bit before sticking it under a blak light and it doesnt cure??  

PhoebeM23 wrote
on Apr 15, 2014 11:31 PM

Is there another option besides sticky tape? I can't get the tacky residue completely off. Help...

shimmerz wrote
on May 22, 2014 7:32 AM

Hi, Same problem here...the tape leaves sticky glue on the back, cant get it off :-(   Tips anyone? grtz Anita from Holland

mistyrubash wrote
on Jun 24, 2014 9:44 PM

For those of you that have residue left behind from the sticky tape- Use some goo gone or adhesive remover. It takes it right off and doesn't affect the resin!