Daily Blogs » Beading Thread 101

Beading Thread 101

Who says size doesn’t matter? For beading thread it does!

Many seed-beaders don’t realize that beading threads have different widths, strengths, and qualities and blindly buy their thread based on price, color, or availability. But the type of thread you buy is just as important as the beads themselves. Thread truly is the backbone of an off-loom or loomed piece of beadwork, so should be considered carefully. 

If you’re not sure about what type you should use, the best place to start is the materials list in your project’s instructions. The suggested beading thread is usually your best bet. As you learn more about beading thread, though, you’ll likely discover your individual preference. For instance, I used to only use Nymo or C-Lon. I liked the color selection and the silky feel. But I’ve recently been using crystals and stones so much in my work, so Fireline seems to be a better choice for its durability.

If you’re wondering about which thread is right for you, the best thing is to try all them! Thread is relatively inexpensive. But if that isn’t feasible, bum new threads off your beading buddies or go halfsies with a friend who wants to try new threads, too.

To get you started, here’s a list of some of the most popular threads for beadweaving with their particular attributes:

Nymo is a strong thread originally created for the shoemaking industry. Beaders love it for seed bead work because it’s strong, but it’s also enough like silk that the resulting beadwork is soft and supple, too. It’s made up of many twisted fibers of nylon. It’s most often available at bead shops by the bobbin in 00, 0, B, and D widths (thinnest to thickest—use 00 for projects with small beads and lots of thread passes, D for wider-holed beads and few passes). It comes in a rainbow of colors, so it’s easy to match the thread to your beads. This thread tends to fray, so use lots of beeswax or thread conditioner to keep the fibers stuck together. It also stretches while you use it, so it’s best to pre-stretch it before you start stitching.

C-Lon is a very strong polymer thread. It has all the same qualities of Nymo, but is slightly stronger and comes in a larger number of colors.

Silamide is another nylon thread. This one was originally made for the upholstery industry—it’s a pre-waxed thread that feels slightly different than Nymo because it’s got a twisted two-ply. You’ll most often find it at bead shops on cards, but you can also buy it in spools. There are many different colors to choose from, but not as many as Nymo and C-Lon. Even though this thread is pre-waxed, another light coat of beeswax will ensure the plies stick together.

PowerPro was first made for the fishing industry, so it comes in “tests”, which relates to how big of a fish you plan on catching! It’s a crazy strong braided thread that is silky like Nymo, C-Lon, and Silamide, but it doesn’t stretch. This stuff could just about pull a bus (don’t try that at home), so it’s great to use with abrasive beads like bugles and crystals because it doesn’t abrade like the other more traditional beading threads. It comes on spools, but only in white and moss. If you must have color, press the end of a length of white under a Sharpie in a color to match your beads and pull the thread through for instant colored thread. Since it’s so strong, it can be difficult to cut—the best way is with a children’s Fiskars scissors. This one is also tricky to thread, so if you’re impatient like me, you may want to try a Big-Eye needle for projects with PowerPro. Most beaders use a 10-pound test, which would work well for weaving a nice bracelet or--catching a delicious bass.

FireLine is another thread born out of the fishing industry. It comes in smoke gray and “crystal”, which is really a see-through white. It has most of the same attributes as PowerPro, but is slightly stiffer. When you cut FireLine it makes a clean end, so it’s a bit easier to thread.


Jean Campbell writes about beading and life every Wednesday on Beading Daily. If you have comments or questions for Jean, please post them on the website. Thanks!



Posted Jun 04 2008, 07:20 AM by Michelle M.

Comments

PatriciaW wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Wed, Jun 4 2008 1:53 PM

Jean:

You've left out a new thread, Toho One-G, which is a nylon thread similar to Nymo, but which doesn't tangle like Nymo can.  It only comes in one size, but I really like it for my Right Angle Weave projects.

Regards,

Pat Walters

Mary AlineJ wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Wed, Jun 4 2008 1:53 PM

What about some size comparisons ... what would be the equivalent size of Nymo D in say Fireline (4#, 6#, 8#, 10#)?

PattiT wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Wed, Jun 4 2008 2:05 PM

I really like Sono thread.  It comes in 4 colors but I never use the white.  I make many bracelets using herringbone stitch, both flat and spiral, and spiral rope.  It does not need to be waxed like Nymo did and seems to be stronger.  It only comes in 1 size but that seems to work well for most things.  I also make dozens of Christmas ornaments each year with Swarovski crystals and Sono has worked well for those also.

DianaB wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Wed, Jun 4 2008 2:06 PM

Where does SoftFlex fall in your assessment. I haven't been beading long, but that's pretty much all I use, unless I'm doing kumihimo with seed beads. I'd be interested in your opinion!

LeeW wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Wed, Jun 4 2008 2:09 PM

By law,  fishing line has to be biodegradable.  It is not supposed to last more than six months in the sun.  Do you really recommend using it?  My only experience was with something someone gave me and it did fall apart.  I use Nymo or Silkon.

CindyC wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Wed, Jun 4 2008 2:34 PM

re:Beading Thread 101

Jean,  you've also left out another new thread by Beadalon - Dandyline.  It sounds much like your description of Fireline.  Have you tried it and how does it rate against the others?  I found Nymo shreds too much but Dandyline is much better.  But it only comes in white and dark grey from what I can find.

CindyC

Deb wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Wed, Jun 4 2008 2:36 PM

Jean,

Great article - I don't do much seed bead work (just enough to be "dangerous" <grin>) so this article will be a wonderful reference when my friends (aka customers) come in asking, "which thread do I use for ...?"

Don't forget that Nymo comes in size F, which is the thickest diameter and that Fireline also comes in "flame" color which is actually a fluorescent green.

It would have been nice if you'd ended the blog to include that the LBS (Local Bead Store) is a source for assistance and advice. Most LBS would be happy to help explain the differences between the threads and suggest which ones are appropriate for a project.

Deb

HelenL wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Wed, Jun 4 2008 3:55 PM

Jean

What would you suggest someone use when working with cystals.

Thank

Ann Livingstone

PattyB wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Wed, Jun 4 2008 3:57 PM

How do you finish off with fireline or powerpro?   Do you knot it or does it need a crimp?  thanks, patty

KimberlyB wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Wed, Jun 4 2008 3:59 PM

Hi Jean,

Thanks so much for the article.  I've been trying to figure out how to make a necklace using my favorite crystals.  I thought I should use FireLine but wasn't sure that it would work with crystals.  I thought the crystals might cut the thread.  I open my mailbox and open my Beading Daily and there it was!  The answer to my question.  All without even having to ask!

Thanks again

Kim

RoseS wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Wed, Jun 4 2008 4:48 PM

Hi Jean,

One note on the differences between Nymo and Fireline.  A beadweaving/bead embroidery friend of mine makes a lot of bead embroided cuffs, and then uses stiff stuff with felt for the backing.  This means she has to iron it.  the one time she used Fireline for one of these cuffs, it melted.  and she had to remake it with nymo, which has never melted for her.

Rose

Thebeadles_ok wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Wed, Jun 4 2008 6:12 PM

Jean - have you tried K.O. thread from Japan. I, along with several of my customers, have used it. The consensus is it if fabulous.

I am interested too in LeeW's question about whether or not the fishing lines are bio-degradeable.

Thanks, Teresa

KarenH wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Thu, Jun 5 2008 5:53 AM

Great article today!  Question - is flexible Nylon-Line good to use for 30 inch or longer necklaces?   I like to make them with out a closure.  I tie a surgeon's knot, add glue then trim ends.  I've had no complaints yet.  Are there pitfalls?   What are your recommendations?

Love your newsletter.

Karen

Stone Dragon wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Thu, Jun 5 2008 9:35 AM

Hey Jean!

For general seedbeading with size 11° beads (peyote, herringbone, etc), I use Nymo treated with Thread Heaven or beeswax.  I also use seedbead stitches with silver beads and crystals - for those, I use Dandyline and Fireline.  Fireline is less visible than the Dandyline but I like the Dandyline better because it doesn't kink up with me.  Dandyline comes in white (and black, I think) but you MAY be able to color it with a marker.  Does anyone know for sure?

Thanks,

Stephanie

DDawn wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Thu, Jun 5 2008 8:31 PM

I am wondering about the SoNo thread, it is advertised as having been developed specifically for seed beading, and as being stronger than other threads, including Fireline? True??

I am also curious about the biodegradable question....

DebraM wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Thu, Jun 5 2008 9:15 PM

I like hand-quilting thread for stringing sead beads. It comes in lots of colors, is strong enough for average-wear pieces and thin enough for two or three passes (when beadweaving). I do put a little clear nailpolish on the knots.

MaryD wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Fri, Jun 6 2008 4:50 AM

I was also curious about KO thread and so-no thread.

Deb wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Tue, Jun 10 2008 2:53 PM

I was also curious about the biodegradeable factor of Fireline and PowerPro. So, I sent e-mails to the companies that make Fireline and PowerPro AND also to the Federal Wildlife Service about biodegradeable.

Fireline's reply was rather short and to the point - Fireline is NOT biodegadeable. If you buy it at your LBS - repackaged under the BeadSmith name, it is exactly the same product as you can buy in the fishing department at Wally World or any sporting goods store that sells fishing line.

PowerPro said "One of the advantages to using a super braid like PowerPro is the extended life span of the line and the fact that it does not degrade in UV light.  There is no need to worry about the line falling apart."

The Federal Wildlife Service said that regulations regarding fishing line and whether it is required to be biodegradeable is up to the individual states. I did see that some of the federal wildlife refuges where fishing is allowed require biodegradeable fishing line, but those are the exceptions.

So - there you have it - all the information about Fireline, PowerPro and whether it's required to fall apart over time!

Deb - AZ Bead Depot

Apache Junction, AZ

souls wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Thu, Jul 10 2008 7:37 PM

Hi Jean,  I have been trying different threads and since I do mostly seed beads I need a thread that is thin enough and strong enough so the pieces don't break on the first thing it gets caught on.  Any suggestions?  The fishing line query, it 's nylon right? but it looks like plastic, so I'm guessing it's not biodegradable.

thanks for the article

Frannie

Lynn, Ma

Susan wrote re: Beading Thread 101
on Sun, Sep 7 2008 1:09 AM

I have used spidrerwire fishing line on several of my necklesses and they just seem to keep breaking. Am I doing something wrong. Do I need to coat the line first with something?     Susan

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