Beading Instructions

Wildly Peyote Zebra Bail by Jayashree Paramesh

Jennifer VanBenschoten — Fri, 29 Mar 2013 07:00:00 GMT

A small, flat peyote strip doesn't have to be uninteresting -- there are so many different ways that a strip of peyote stitch can be used! Try this free beading project for an easy peyote stitch bail for use with a crystal pendant or a gemstone donut. String it on your favorite ribbon for a fast and easy peyote stitch necklace!

This free beading project is perfect for some of those large gemstone pendants you have in your stash that might need a little extra color or texture.

Materials:

2 grams size 11 cylinder beads, opaque black (A)
2 grams size 11 cylinder beads, opaque white (B)
2 drop beads, 3mm, opaque brown (C)
1 black agate pendant, at least 30mm
Fireline beading thread, 6 lb. test
Glue (Pasco Fix recommended)

Tools

Size 10 beading needle
Scissors or thread cutter

Step-by-step Instructions:

Step 1: On a comfortable length of thread, string 1 B, 10 A, 1 B. Pick up 1 B and start working in peyote stitch, following the graph (Figure 1). Make sure all the beads along the edges are B.

Step 2: Decrease on either side of the peyote strip, ending when you have just one bead in the center. Pick up 1 C and pass through the single bead again. Weave your thread into the peyote stitch, knot, and trim close to the beadwork. Repeat on the other side of the bail.

Optional: To make a tube as shown at the top of the bail, mark Rows 19 and 37. Pass through the edge bead of Row 19 and zip up the beadwork.

Step 3: Lift the ends of bail and place a drop of glue on the stone and press down. Do the same to the other side. Let dry.

Jayashree Paramesh learned bead embroidery at the Parsons School of Design in New York City. Her beaded jewelry designs have appeared in Beadwork magazine. For her teaching schedule and more information about her, check out her website, Nchantme.com.


Figure 1		Figure 2
Wildly Peyote Bail - Zebra Print		Wildly Peyote Bail - Leopard Print

Make These Easy Mixed Metal Earrings

Jennifer VanBenschoten — Tue, 15 Jan 2013 08:00:00 GMT

In yesterday's Beading Daily, we learned about some basic tools for metal jewelry making from metal jewelry artist and instructor Gwen Fuller Youngblood. Today, we'll see how to use those tools to make a pair of lovely mixed metal earrings!

Materials:

(2) pieces of sheet metal, your choice of metals (copper and brass recommended), 24-gauge
Ear wires

Tools:

Templates for shapes
Metal shears
Metal file
Bench block and pad
Chasing hammer
Hole punching pliers
Black marker
Alcohol swabs or rubbing alcohol (to remove any traces of marker)
Chain nose or flat nose pliers

		For this project, you'll want to use two different types of sheet metal. You can also use a set of pre-cut metal shapes as accents for these easy metal earrings.

		Using the black marker, trace your desired shapes onto the sheet metal. Cut out the shapes using the metal shears and file the edges until smooth. Use alcohol swabs or rubbing alcohol to remove any traces of black marker from your metal shapes.

		Place one of the shapes on your bench block and hammer it with the round side of your chasing hammer. Hammering will give the metal shapes a lovely texture! You can texture all of your metal pieces, or leave some of them plain for more contrast.

		Punch a hole near the top of each shape using the hole punching pliers.

		Using your chain nose pliers, open the loop at the bottom of an ear wire and hang the metal shapes so that the large shapes are in the back and the smaller shapes are on top. Close the loop, and repeat for the other earring.

Thanks to Gwen Fuller Youngblood for this great earring making project!

Gwen explored a variety of creative outlets, from cake decorating to quilting to lampworking, until she discovered jewelry making using wire, metal and fire. These three elements inspire her to be creative and fuel her passion for teaching. As an instructor, Gwen loves the interaction and camaraderie of the classroom. Her mission is to make metalworking techniques accessible to everyone, so that students learn more than they expected and have fun doing it.

Gwen also believes it is important for students to experiment with new techniques without a costly investment in new tools. For that reason, Gwen provides all necessary tools for each student to use in class, whether in her studio, Metal Art Lab, or on the road. As a teacher, Gwen loves to share her knowledge and creativity freely, with a dash of humor and lots of caring patience.

Please visit her website, www.metalartlab.com, for current class information.

Add Some Sparkle and Texture To Your Polymer Clay Beads!

Jennifer VanBenschoten — Thu, 11 Oct 2012 07:00:00 GMT

A big thank-you to Iris Weiss of Polyform Products for sharing this free polymer clay bead making tutorial with us, and thank you to Suzanne Anderson of Yikes Studio for creating this tutorial!

If you've made some of the big hole polymer clay beads from yesterday's Beading Daily blog, here are some more ideas for adding a little bit of sparkle and texture to your polymer clay beads:

Making Metallic Beads

Use pearl clay to make a bead using the large hole bead inserts.

Texture scraps of the pearl clay with stamps or other objects, and cut them into thin strips. Wrap the beads with the textured strips.

For more metallic effects, use PearlEx or mica powders to the textured pearl beads.

Adding Crystal Flatbacks to Your Polymer Clay Beads

Roll a small, think snake of polymer clay in your desired color (to match or contrast with your crystal flatbacks) and cut off tiny pieces. Roll pieces into small balls.

Push your flat back crystals into the small balls of clay until the edges of the clay come up slightly over the edge of the crystal. This will form a secure bezel for your crystal flat back stone when the bead is properly baked.

Using your tissue blade, lift the clay bezeled crystal and place on a finished (but not baked) polymer clay bead. Press gently to adhere the crystal to the bead.

Bake the polymer clay beads according to the package directions.

Do you have a favorite technique for adding sparkle to your polymer clay bead making projects? Share it here!

Bead Happy,

Jennifer

Polymer Clay Bead Making Techniques: Learn How to Make a Skinner Blend

Jennifer VanBenschoten — Wed, 10 Oct 2012 07:00:00 GMT

Learning how to make a Skinner blend opens up a whole new realm of possibilities when it comes to bead making with polymer clay. A big thank-you to Iris Weiss of Polyform Products for sharing this free polymer clay bead making tutorial with us.

How to Make a Polymer Clay Skinner Blend

		Select two colors to be used in this blend. Cut a square out of each color and stack the triangles together to join with the other color. Trim so that the top and bottom have their corners trimmed off.

		Run through the thickest setting on your pasta machine. Fold the clay, lining up the sides and run through the pasta machine. Repeat folding and running through, making sure to always fold in the same direction. After multiple times, the blend will begin to develop. Reduce the thickness on your pasta machine to the next thinnest setting and roll through.

		Trim your blended piece to neaten it up. You can use your Skinner blend like this by slicing off a thin piece and use it as an applique on a polymer clay bead or cabochon.

		Begin rolling very carefully and tightly along the long edge so that the blend runs lengthwise.

		Begin working the clay inward, starting at the ends, compressing it until you have a fat plug of clay. You can now use this piece of clay for a variety of canes!

Take a look at another great free polymer clay bead making project over on today's Beading Daily blog! And check back tomorrow for a few more quick ideas for adding decorations to your polymer clay bead making projects!

Bead Happy,

Jennifer

Free Beading Project: Leather Bubble Bead Cuff Bracelet

Jennifer VanBenschoten — Wed, 29 Aug 2012 13:00:00 GMT

I was so in love with this neon green Regaliz Greek leather from Antelope Beads that I wanted to make a cheerful yet modern beaded cuff bracelet with it. I adapted a technique I learned from both Sig Wynne-Evans and Gail Crossman Moore to create the little drop bead bubbles. Enjoy!

Materials:

8" lime green Regaliz leather, 10mm x 6mm (for larger bracelets, you may need more)
Clasp of your choice (Regaliz magnetic hidden safety clasp recommended)
Leather glue
8-12 silver headpins, 2" long, 22 gauge
5-10 grams 3.4mm fringe bead, orange lined lime green (Fox Den Beads)
Beading thread (6lb Fireline recommended)

Tools:

Dremel or other hand-held drill with micro bit
Heavy duty X-acto blade
Round nose pliers
Wire cutters
Beading needle, size 12
Scissors or thread cutter

Step-by-step Instructions:

		Attach one side of the clasp to the leather using the leather glue. Measure the leather and the remaining clasp end, and trim the leather to the proper size for your wrist. Attach the second half of the clasp. Using the hand held drill, make holes all the way through the leather, spaced approximately 3/4" apart. Insert one headpin through the leather from the back to the front. (The flat side of the headpin should be on the inside of the bracelet.)

		Using your round nose pliers, make a double loop by wrapping the wire around the pliers twice. Trim with the wire cutters.

		Repeat until you have double loops in each of the holes you drilled.

		To begin your bubbles, cut a wingspan (about 5 feet) of beading thread. Thread your needle, double the thread by folding it in half at the center, and tie a knot at the end. Pick up 2 fringe beads. Pass the needle through the first loop, then through both beads again. Pull snugly and tie another knot to hold them in place. To make the bubble, pick up two more fringe beads and pass through the open loop again. Then pick up one bead at a time, passing through the loop. As you add beads, you'll see a bubble forming! Add beads as you like to fill out places in your bubble.

		When you like the look of your bubble, end by making a couple of half-hitch knots, weave your thread into the bubble, and trim close to the bubble.

		Repeat until you have added bubbles to each of the double loops on your bracelet. Enjoy!

If you make this free beaded bracelet project, make sure you take a picture and post it in our Reader Photo Gallery!

Bead Happy,

Jennifer

Free Beading Project: Easy Wire Wrapped Cuff Bracelet

Jennifer VanBenschoten — Wed, 08 Aug 2012 07:00:00 GMT

I've really been getting into working with easy wire wrapping projects lately, and these two blank metal cuff bracelets from this month's A Grain of Sand Bead Hoard Curiosities Club just spoke to me as soon as I saw them. They wanted me to wrap them with wire and beads to make a couple of fun and easy beaded cuff bracelets!

You can find similar wire cuff bracelet components from Metalliferous or Designer's Findings.

Materials:

Brass or copper wire bracelet blank
Clasp (optional, depending on the type of wire bracelet blank you're using)
25-50 4mm beads (number of beads required may vary, depending on size of beads and size of cuff)
5 feet of 24 gauge copper wire

Tools:

Wire cutters/flush cutters
Flat nose or chain nose pliers

Step-by-step Instructions:

		If you are using a clasp, attach each piece of the clasp to either end of the cuff bracelet. Use the chain nose or flat nose pliers to gently close the loop around the clasp.

		Using the 24 gauge wire, make several wraps around one side of the cuff bracelet. String on one bead and push it down so that it sits on the outside of the cuff bracelet. Wrap the wire around the cuff bracelet, holding the bead in place with your fingers as you wrap. Pull snugly (but not so tight that the wire snaps) to secure the bead in place.

		Continue adding beads, one at a time, with wire wraps across the outside of the bracelet.

		When you get to the other end of the bracelet, make several wraps with the remaining copper wire. Trim the wire close to the bracelet. You can use the chain nose pliers to gently smash the end of the wire down so that it doesn't rub up against your wrist.

		Change up the look of your bracelets by using different beads! Some suggestions: Larger seed beads (like 6/0 seed beads) Different shapes of Czech fire polished beads Czech druk beads Small freshwater pearls Small gemstone beads

These beaded cuff bangles work up fast, and are so comfortable to wear, you'll find yourself making loads of them for last-minute gifts! Enjoy! (And make sure you check out the A Grain of Sand website to find out more about the Bead Hoard Curiosities Club!)

Bead Happy,

Jennifer

How to Use a Color Wheel for Your Beading Projects

Jennifer VanBenschoten — Tue, 07 Aug 2012 07:00:00 GMT


	Coloring in this color wheel on my own was a great way to learn more about color theory for bead-weaving.

Choosing colors can be the hardest part of any beading project. For a long time, I just chose colors on a whim. If they worked together, I always thought it was purely by chance. But after doing some intense color studies with bead artist and renowned color expert Margie Deeb, I began to realize that I was actually just trusting my inner color sense.

There are still times when I sit down with one of my beaded jewelry design ideas and have no idea what color seed beads to select before I get started. When that happens, and I feel like I'm totally in a color rut, I break out my trusty rusty color wheel and use that as a jumping off point for mixing and matching colors of beads.

You don't need to understand everything there is to know about color theory before you start using your color wheel. In fact, using your color wheel can teach you a lot about how color theory works!

Tints vs. shades.

To start, look at your color wheel. You'll notice that each color has been sectioned off into other shades (colors that have had black added to them) and tints (colors that have had white added to them.) You'll be using the corresponding numbers on each color to determine a harmonious match or contrast. A shade is generally a darker, more muted color on the color wheel. Tints are generally brighter and more ethereal.

Using your color wheel to select a palette of seed beads.

Next, look at the center of the color wheel. You should see four shapes, each in a different color, and each with a star on one corner of the shape. Slide the center of the wheel around until the star of one shape is pointing at the color that you want to use as your main color. Look to see what other colors the other corners of that particular colored shape are pointing at to determine what colors to choose to accent your main color!

As an example, with the color wheel pictured, if you wanted a basic palette of three colors, you would choose your colors using either the orange or red triangles in the center of the color wheel. A color palette of beads chosen using one of these triangles is also known as a triad.

You could also choose a palette of four colors using either the purple square or the green rectangle in the middle of this color wheel. A color palette of beads made with four colors from these points on the color wheel is called a tetrad.

You can also choose a palette of bead colors called a complimentary palette. Complimentary colors come from opposite sides of the color wheel. So, if you notice the two black arrows across from each other in the center of our color wheel, you'll see that they point to colors opposite each other on the color wheel. Examples of complimentary color pairs are blue and orange, purple and yellow, and red and green.

Playing with your colors.


	Download Margie Deeb's Guide to Fearless Color Play for free here on Beading Daily.

Now, it's time to play with your colors! You can download a free color wheel from Color Wheel Artist and use crayons or colored pencils to fill in the spaces, giving you a better idea of how colors are arranged on the color wheel.

If you're looking for more ways to use color more effectively in your bead-weaving, Margie Deeb's website is my all-time favorite place to find ideas, inspiration, and information. Many of the publications in her online shop are available as an instant download, and her Instant Color Wheel Guide will have you using your color wheel more efficiently in just minutes.

What are your questions about using a color wheel with your seed bead patterns? Leave a comment here with your question!

Bead Happy,

Jennifer

P.S. You can read more about my color journey with Margie Deeb in a past Beading Daily blog! Or download Margie's Guide to Fearless Color Play for free from Beading Daily.

Common Lengths of Necklaces for Necklace Making Projects

Jennifer VanBenschoten — Mon, 06 Aug 2012 07:00:00 GMT

What length do you want to make your necklace? Whether you're making a beaded necklace for yourself, as a gift for a friend, or to sell, you'll want to be aware of some common necklace lengths. Necklaces sold in stores and online are sometimes referred to as "princess length" or "opera length", but what does that mean? Here's a quick guide to different necklace lengths for anyone who wants to know:

Choker. This necklace is generally around 16 inches long, meant to fit snugly around the neck.

Princess. A princess length necklace is usually 18 inches long, suitable for hanging a small pendant.

Matinee. These necklaces are generally between 20 and 24 inches in length, and dip down just above the bustline.

Opera. An opera length necklace is between 28 and 32 inches long, and dips down well below the bustline.

Lariat. A lariat is an open-ended necklace that is usually worn with the ends in the front, and can be anywhere up to 48 inches or more, leaving plenty of room to tie, fasten, or knot the necklace.

Head on over to the Beading Daily blog for more great tips and information on how to adjust the length of your necklace, make necklaces that fit, and how to match your favorite necklaces with the necklines of your favorite shirts!

The Battle of the Beadsmith: How Not to Enter a Jewelry Competition

Jennifer VanBenschoten — Thu, 26 Jul 2012 23:50:00 GMT

Well, the first round of voting in The Battle of the Beadsmith competition ended last week, and the winners have been announced. Much to the surprise of many, my piece, Mother of Dragons, didn't make it into the second round. But, get this: it lost by only one vote.

One vote! I was over the moon when I found out. Yes, you read that correctly. I mean, don't get me wrong. Sure, I was a little bit disappointed that I had lost in round one, but I was thrilled to know that it was such a close competition.

I had my reservations going into this competition. I hadn't made a "major" piece of beadwork or beaded jewelry since I had my son back in 2008, and I hadn't entered any kind of jewelry making competition since 2006. But I wanted to enter this particular jewelry making competition because I knew it would be fierce, and I wanted to push myself to create something entirely new.

I also learned a few things about entering jewelry making competitions that really changed the way I view these things, and I hope maybe a budding beaded jewelry designer can learn something about entering jewelry making competitions, too.

1. Just because your beautiful piece of beaded jewelry didn't win, it means your work is awful, worthless, or not good enough. This is a hard one for a lot of artists, because I think that most people equate artistic success with commercial success. However, that's not always the case. There are many, many beautiful pieces of art that don't make it into juried art shows or jewelry making competitions, but that doesn't make them bad pieces of art. It just means that those particular judges didn't like them. And, really -- if you ask ten different people their opinion on the same piece of art, chances are that you are going to get ten different answers.

2. If you don't want to lose, don't enter a competition. I know, it's so easy to get wrapped up in the fantasy of entering a jewelry making competition and having your piece of beaded jewelry win top honors. But entering a jewelry making competition doesn't guarantee that you'll win anything. What it does guarantee, however, is that you will get your name and your work in front of a panel of professional judges, and sometimes, just getting your name out there at first can be more valuable than winning any prize.

3. Jewelry making competitions are harmful to your artistic development. This is one hot topic, and one that I will be exploring further in the coming weeks, but personally, I don't think there's anything wrong with a little healthy competition, even in the beading and jewelry making world. Jewelry making competitions are there to inspire artists, and I felt a great sense of accomplishment on finishing my bead embroidered collar for The Battle of the Beadsmith competition -- even if I didn't make it past the first round!


	*Davinia, by Australian bead artist Patrick Duggan, was another amazing piece of beadwork that didn't make it into Round 2 of The Battle of the Beadsmith.*

Of course, being an artist means that you're probably a little more sensitive to the opinions and criticisms about your work. I don't mean to say that you shouldn't pay attention when someone has something critical to say about your beaded jewelery designs. But learning how to recognize what is truly constructive criticism and what is just someone's opinion is an important part of being an artist.

I also don't want to discourage anyone from entering their work in a jewelry competition, either. But do it with your eyes open and with the knowledge in your heart that no matter what the results of the competition, yes, you are good enough!

Bead Happy,

Jennifer

Free Beading Project: Wire and Bead Chain Using Vintage Metal Beads

Jennifer VanBenschoten — Wed, 18 Jul 2012 13:00:00 GMT

I loved these curved metal beads from the July 2012 shipment of A Grain of Sand's Bead Hoard Curiosities Club. They reminded me of stringing macaroni onto yarn with my mother and sister when I was kid! But their lovely gold finish and their unusual curved shape made me wonder what would happen if I used them to make a wire and bead chain necklace. The result was an unusual, vintage-style beaded necklace that I can wear with just about anything.

Materials:

9 20mm curved gold vintage tube beads (A)
18 3mm gold round beads (B)
10 5mm gold jump rings
8 feet gold craft wire, 20 gauge
Gold clasp of your choice

Tools:

Combination pliers OR chain nose and round nose pliers
Wire cutter

		Step 1: Working from your spool of wire, slide on 1 B, 1 A, and 1 B. Make a wrapped loop at the end of the wire, and push the beads against the loop. Tip: When threading the curved bead on your wire, you might find it easier to use your pliers to gently push the wire through the bead.

		Step 2: Cut your wire 1 1/2" from the other end of the beads.

		Step 3: Make a wrapped loop at the other end of the link. Repeat until you have completed 9 links.

		Step 4: Open a jump ring and string on two links. Close the jump ring. Use the jump rings to connect all 9 units. Attach one jump ring to each end of the necklace, and attach the clasp using those jump rings. Close securely.

Enjoy!

Bead Happy,

Jennifer

For more great vintage beads, check out A Grain of Sand.

Want to Learn How to Weave Beads on a Loom? Mirrix Looms Can Show You How!

Jennifer VanBenschoten — Tue, 19 Jun 2012 13:00:00 GMT

I've been in love with my Mirrix beading loom ever since I took it out of the box back in 2009. It's a well-built, sturdy, and easy-to-use bead loom that can also be used for tapestry weaving. The other thing I love about Mirrix Looms is their website and blogs, which are full of great instructions, tips, and techniques for weaving beads on a loom.

Mirrix Marketing Director Elena Chase writes the blog A Word From Elena, and just yesterday, she posted a fantastic tutorial about learning to weave beads in just twenty three pictures, using a Mirrix Loom.

This online loom weaving tutorial shows you how to set up and warp your assembled Mirrix Loom, and then how to get started weaving seed beads. The photographs in this blog guide you through each step, with clearly written directions for warping and weaving.

So if you have a Mirrix loom and haven't set it up yet to start weaving seed beads, I can highly recommend this blog post, and all of the other helpful blogs you'll find on the Mirrix Looms website. Check their blogs often for contributions from their Social Market for a Mirrix winners to see more gorgeous loomed beadwork and tapestries!

Bead Happy,

Jennifer

How to Do Circular Flat Peyote Stitch

Jennifer VanBenschoten — Fri, 15 Jun 2012 07:00:00 GMT

Circular, flat peyote stitch is a great beadweaving technique for someone who wants to not only expand their beadweaving skills, but also wants to learn more about shaped and geometric beadwork. When you learn circular, flat peyote stitch, you'll also develop your skills at creating shaped beadwork! Here we go!

Materials:

Two highly contrasting colors of size 8^o seed beads
Beading thread of your choice, preferably in a heavier weight (10 lb. Fireline or Nymo D)

Tools:

Size 12 beading needle
Scissors or thread cutter

		On a comfortable length of thread (no longer than five feet), pick up five seed beads. Do not tie these beads into a ring! Leaving the ring loose will help you with proper spacing of the beads in the critical first few rounds of circular, flat peyote stitch. Pass through the first bead strung and pull into a circle.

		Pick up a bead of contrasting color and stitch through the next bead in the ring. Keep your tension loose so that the bead fits into place without too much tugging or pulling.

		Continue adding beads in this manner until you have added a total of five seed beads. Step up through the first bead added.

		This is what your first two rounds will look like. Don't worry too much if you can see a bit of thread between each of the beads in the initial circle of seed beads. It's more important to make sure that your spacing is even and loose so that the beads fit together properly, and your piece of circular, flat peyote stitch won't warp or become misshapen as you stitch.

		You'll notice that there is a larger space between each of the beads you stitched in the previous round. For this round, pick up two seed beads and pass through the next up bead in the round, keeping your tension loose and comfortable.

		At the end of the round, step up through the first pair of beads added, treating them as a single unit.

		For the next round, you'll be adding one seed bead in each space between bead pairs as well as one seed bead between each bead in a pair. You should have a total of ten beads in this round. Again, keeping your tension loose will allow the beads to fall into place easily without much chance of misshapen beadwork or broken beads.

		At the end of this round, you'll add one last bead between a pair of beads from the previous round, and then make your step up through the first seed bead added in this round.

		Add one bead in each space for the next round. You should be adding a total of ten beads, keeping your tension loose, and making a step up at the end of the round.

		Now you'll notice that there are some spaces between up beads that are wider and some that are narrow. For this round, we'll start by adding a pair of beads, then a single bead, and repeating around for a total of fifteen beads added. At the end of the round, step up through the first pair of seed beads added, treating them as a single unit.

		Add one seed bead in each space between up beads, as well as between each pair of beads added in the previous row. Again, keep your tension loose as you stitch.

You can continue to add as many rounds as you like, adding two beads in the spaces between up beads in each round as necessary. Trust your instincts, and see where your creativity will lead you next!

Bead Happy,

Jennifer

Free Beading Project: Bead Netted Bottle

Jennifer VanBenschoten — Tue, 12 Jun 2012 07:00:00 GMT

A very long time ago, when I first started beading, beaded bottles were very popular beading projects. Even though I loved making peyote stitch needle cases, it took me ten long years to discover how much fun stitching beaded netting is around a tiny glass bottle!

I recently found a set of tiny glass bottles in the scrap book supply aisle at my local craft store, and as soon as I saw them, I thought they would be perfect for practicing my sculptural beadwork skills.

To start off, I decided to make a couple of tiny beaded bottles using beaded netting. The beaded netting works up very quickly (in about an hour), and you can embellish them with any fancy flower or leaf beads you happen to have handy! Use your imagination to add some beaded fringe and a strap for wearing your tiny beaded bottle when you're finished.

Materials:

One tiny glass bottle with cork, approximately 2 inches long. (About 1/3" in diameter)
5 grams each, two colors of size 15 seed beads (A and B)
Embellishment beads of your choice (I used a Lucite mix from The Hole Bead Shop)
Beading thread: 6 lb. Fireline recommended

Tools:

Size 12 beading needle
Scissors or thread cutter

		On a comfortable length of thread (no longer than five feet), pick up 5A. Pass through the first bead again to form a ring, but do not tie a knot! (This will give you some wiggle room when creating the first few rounds of the base so that it fits correctly and doesn't pucker or warp.)

		Pick up 1B and pass through the next A in the ring. Repeat to add a total of 5B. Step up through the first B added.

		Pick up 2A and pass through the next B in the ring. Continue adding pairs of A around, for a total of 10A. Step up through the first pair of A added, treating them as a single unit. Pick up 1 B and pass through the next A in the ring. Add 1B in each space, and in between each pair of A added in the previous round. Keep your tension loose as you stitch to allow the beads to sit nicely in place without the risk of breaking a bead.

		By this time, the base should cover the bottom of your glass bottle. If you're using a larger bottle, continue working in circular, flat peyote stitch until your base covers the bottom of your glass bottle.

		After you've made your step up at the end of the last round, pick up 3A, 1B, 3A. Skip the next B in the round and pass through the next B. Repeat 4 times. Your base should now resemble a star. Pass through the B you exited at the beginning of the round and through the first 4 beads added.

		Begin working the netting: Pick up 2A, 1B, 2A. Pass through the next B in the round. Pull snugly at the end of the round so that the netting fits snugly around the bottom of the glass bottle. From here on in, work your beaded netting by picking up 3A, 1B, and 3A. Pull snugly so that the netting fits around the body of the glass bottle. It may help to secure the base to the bottom of the glass bottle with a small piece of double-sided tape.

To finish your beaded bottle, work the netting until you reach the neck of the bottle. Decrease in your netting by picking up 2A, 1B, and 2A for each stitch, and pull snugly. For the last round, simply pass through the A beads in the round several times, tie a few half-hitch knots, and add a drop of glue if desired.

Embellish your bottle with any beads you have handy. Some ideas: tiny seashells, Lucite flowers and leaves, or crystal bicones will make your beaded bottle even more beautiful! Use your imagination to add a strap and some beaded fringe for a truly unique beaded keepsake.

For inspiration, you can write a favorite quote or prayer on a small scrap of paper, roll it up, and insert it into the bottle.

Happy Beading!

Jennifer

The Great Jewelry Making Makeover!

Jennifer VanBenschoten — Tue, 05 Jun 2012 07:00:00 GMT

I really do have the best friends in the world. A couple of weeks ago, a friend of mine sent me a huge box, full of antique jewelry that had belonged to her late stepfather's first wife.

Before I go into detail about the jewelry, I want to tell you a little bit about her stepfather. Joe was what you might call "eccentric". Born and raised in Brooklyn, N.Y., he was well-educated and traveled the world while in the Army during the 1930s and 1940s. By the time I met him, Joe was in his 60s, and his little quirks had become downright peculiar and hilarious. A hater of vegetables of any sort, he would suspiciously eye the spoons with which my friend and I cooked dinner to make sure that none of them had become "contaminated" by the eggplant or the peas. At restaurants, he made sure to wedge several bread plates between his dish and any dishes containing vegetables. On the days when the municipal garbage collectors came around, Joe could be found sitting in the garage, singing their praises as they emptied bins and cans into their trucks. One Christmas, he even went so far as to tell us to refrain from putting up a live Christmas tree, since he believed that its green branches would suck all the oxygen out of the house, thereby asphyxiating all of them as they slept. And I'm sure my friend and I will never forget the time that we left a box of vanilla-flavored dog treats on the dining room table, only to come back later and find that Joe had eaten this entire box of delicious "vanilla sugar cookies" without actually reading the label on the package.

But Joe was deeply in love with his first wife, Dorothy. He kept many of her things, and they were handed down to my friend when Joe passed away in 2011. So when my friend asked me if I would like part of the collection of antique jewelry, I was thrilled and honored to be the recipient of part of this collection!

As I tore through the many boxes she sent, it felt like I had struck gold at an estate sale. I picked up piece after piece of ethnic, silver, and antique jewelry, and couldn't take my eyes off the colors and shapes that danced in front of me.

My friend had suggested that I re-purpose much of this antique jewelry into other projects, but after looking at it, I knew that with my jewelry making skills, I could most likely repair almost all of it and restore some of it.

The easiest way to start was with a couple of pairs of earrings.These beaded earrings were hung from antique screw back earring findings, but I've always found those to be incredibly uncomfortable. It only took a few minutes to remove them and hang them on new pair of fish hook ear wires.

The first pair of beaded earrings was made with Mummy Beads, also known as Egyptian faience. Ceramic beads of this type have been found in some of the oldest ancient Egyptian tombs, and some faience beads are still made today with a combination of ceramic and glass bead making techniques. Despite the size of the earrings, and the number of beads that they were made with, the faience is actually as light as a feather, and the earrings are comfortable to wear all day.

I instantly recognized the second pair of earrings as vintage Mexican silver. These earrings, with their carved green gemstone cabochons, are now affectionately known as my "Little Green Man" earrings.

What's next for my jewelry making skills? There are several pieces of beaded jewelry in here that could use a little tender, loving care. There are more earrings that I want to try to recreate using crystal pearls and glass beads into necklace and bracelet components; strands of vintage Japanese glass pearls that need to be restrung; a necklace made of brightly colored shells that can be turned into a new beading project; and a bracelet made with large, chunky, faceted carnelian beads that needs some repairs.

Watch this blog for my weekly updates on what I'm doing next to take these vintage and antique pieces of jewelry and use my jewelry making skills to transform them!

Bead Happy,

Jennifer

Make a Cabochon Bezel with Right-Angle Weave

Jennifer VanBenschoten — Tue, 17 Apr 2012 02:00:00 GMT

Making an open-backed bezel for a cabochon has certain advantages over making one using bead embroidery techniques. If you're using a transparent or translucent cabochon, stitching an open-backed bezel for it will allow light to pass through it and make it brighter. Or when using a transparent cabochon, you don't want the color of the bead embroidery backing to show through, it makes more sense to stitch an open-backed bezel for it.

You can make beaded bezels with peyote stitch and brick stitch, but I recently started using right-angle weave for some of my open-backed bezels. Using a strip of right-angle weave to create a bezel results in a better fit and a tighter bezel around your precious cabochons!

Materials:

1 gram of size 11^o seed beads in one or more colors to match or contrast with cabochon
1 gram of size 15^o seed beads in color to match or contrast with cabochon
6 lb. Fireline or beading thread of your choice

Tools:

Size 12 beading needle
Scissors of thread cutter
Chain nose pliers (optional, but helpful)

Step By Step Directions:

		Start by making a strip of right-angle weave to fit around the bezel. Use four beads for each unit. For the last unit, you'll only need to add one bead to the top and one bead to the bottom of the strip to join the ends. If the bezel is slightly loose, that's okay -- you can tighten it later.

		Exiting from one of the beads on the outer edge of the bezel, pick up another size11o bead and stitch through the next bead on the outer edge of the bezel. Fill in each space between beads in the right-angle weave bezel with another bead. I used a contrasting color for this row so that I could see where I was stitching. Make a step-up at the end of the round like you do when working in tubular even-count peyote stitch.

		Working in peyote stitch, add a round of size 15o beads between each of the size 11o beads that you just added in the previous round. Keep your tension tight as you work. Insert the cabochon into the bezel.

		Flip the cabochon and bezel over, and start stitching a round of 11o beads in between the beads along the outer edge of the strip of right-angle weave. Again, keep your tension tight as you stitch.

		Make a step up at the end of the round, and add a second round with the size 15o seed beads. Continue to work with a tight tension to make a secure bezel.

		A right-angle weave bezel is easy to embellish! Add fringe beads like magatamas or drop beads, pearls, or crystals.

Right-angle weave bezels are also easier to join together when stitching up several components for a beaded necklace or beaded bracelet. The spaces between the beads in the right-angle weave units make it easier to work your needle into the beads!

Have you tried making right-angle weave bezels? Share your tips with us, or take a picture of your right-angle weave bezel and share it with us in the Reader Photo Gallery!

Bead Happy,

Jennifer