I had an idea once for a piece of beaded jewelry. It was
based on a piece that I had seen in an online auction catalog from one of the
big auction houses, and it was a gorgeous diamond and enamel necklace from the
early part of the twentieth century. It didn't look too hard to re-create using
Swarovski crystal rivolis and crystal frames. For an eighteen-inch necklace, I
only had to make peyote-stitch bezels around twenty-eight 12mm Swarovski rivolis.
Easy, right?
Wrong.
I hadn't really had much practice making peyote-stitch
bezels around rivolis when I thought up this project, but I figured I'd give it
a go. While my son (who was still an infant at the time) took his morning nap,
I sat down with the bag of rivolis and some cylinder beads and thought I'd whip
up a few peyote-stitch bezels. It turned out to be much more of a learning
experience than I expected! For starters, I had no idea how many cylinder beads
I should be using for the base ring of each peyote-stitch bezel. Then I found
that my bezels slipped around as I was trying to stitch them. I couldn't get
the Swarovski rivolis to sit in them. The bezels slipped off too easily when I
tried to attach them to the crystal frames. If anything, it was definitely a
lesson in frustration.
I finally sat down and wrote out each step in making my
peyote-stitch bezels. It wasn't easy, but with a lot of trial and error and
lots of phone calls to one of my beading friends, I finally came away with a
set of tips for making better peyote-stitch beaded bezels:
1. Don't
use a very long piece of thread. You can make a secure peyote-stitch bezel
using an arm's length (about five feet or less) of beading thread. If you plan
on adding beaded embellishment to your peyote-stitch bezel, add a new thread.
When you pick up your cylinder beads for the base ring, make sure you leave a
good length of thread, around six or seven inches, for the tail. Using the tail
to stitch a row of size 15o seed beads around the back of the rivoli
after the bezel has been completed will make it fit better.
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Checking the size of your base ring before you continue to stitch is very important to getting a securely-fitting peyote stitch bezel.
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2. Check
the size of your base ring. To make my peyote-stitch bezels for a rivoli, I
multiply the size of the rivoli in millimeters by two and add two to that
number. As an example, I would pick up thirty-four cylinder beads for a rivoli
that is sixteen millimeters in diameter. (16 x 2 = 32. 32 + 2 = 34 cylinder
beads for the base ring.) If your tension when you work peyote stitch is very
loose, I would decrease the number of cylinder beads. A good rule of thumb is
to have a base ring that is about two thirds of the diameter of your rivoli.
(And always make sure that you have an even number of cylinder beads!)
3. Tension
is also very important when making a peyote-stitch bezel. Beading too tightly
can result in a bezel that will have too much beading thread showing between
beads around the outermost edge. Beading too loosely can result in a peyote-stitch
bezel that will fall off the rivoli too easily. The trick is to maintain a
nice, even tension throughout the project.
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Hold the rivoli in the bezel with your fingers as you stitch to ensure a good fit.
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4. After
you have stitched the first two rounds of tubular even-count peyote stitch,
hold the rivoli against the bezel to check it for fit. At this point, I usually
continue to hold the rivoli in place in the center of the bezel as I stitch. (I
also remove any fingerprints after I'm finished with a soft, damp cloth.) As
you stitch around the rivoli, you'll notice that the bezel wants to curl around
the rivoli. Take advantage of that - pull lightly on your beading thread to
help the bezel cup itself around the rivoli.
5. Use
a row of size 15o seed beads on both the top AND the bottom of the
bezel after it has been completed. Pull a little on your beading thread as you
add these beads, and they will make your peyote-stitch bezel tighter around
your rivoli. (You did leave a nice long tail to use, right?) When adding your
size 15o seed beads, sort through the beads as you pick them up. Try
to use thinner beads instead of the thick seed beads. It might seem like a lot
of extra work when you're trying to pick through a pile of those tiny size 15o
seed beads, but it will be worth it when you have a tight and secure peyote-stitch
bezel around your beautiful Swarovski crystal rivoli!
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A pair of peyote stitch bezels surrounding bright green rivolis. Size 15 seed beads keep them secure.
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Like any skill worth knowing, learning how to make a good
peyote-stitch bezel around a rivoli requires some practice. But take the time
to make your peyote-stitch bezels the best they can be, and you'll find that
you're on your way to making heirloom-quality jewelry!
Bead Happy,

Jennifer
Filed under: Seed Bead Patterns, Bead-weaving, Crystals, Beading Tools, Peyote Stitch, Beaded Beads, Bead Making, How to Bead, Jewelry Making, Beaded Jewelry Design, Beads, Beaded Jewelry, Mixed Media Jewelry