|December 2007/January 2008CorrectionsWaves of Pearls by Miwako Nara (page 48)The corrected version of this project is available in Beadwork Presents 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs (2009). Or contact Beadwork editors.Temaki Pendant by Tina Koyama (page 68)
The following text replaces Step 1’s Ladder base and Rows 1-18; the Figure 1 replaces the original Figures 1–5.
1: Herringbone pendant. Work flat herringbone stitch with increases to produce a spiral pendant. Mix cylinder and hex beads together (A) in small bowl and string beads at random.
Row 1 (ladder base): Use 5′ of conditioned thread to work a 1-bead ladder using 16A (Figure 1, thin blue line). Turn the ladder so the working thread exits up through the bead on the right.
Rows 2–3 (herringbone stitch): String 2A, pass down through the next bead in the ladder and up through the following. Repeat to the end of the ladder, and string 1A as a turn-around bead after exiting the first ladder bead. Pass up through the last A of Row 1 (Figure 1, light blue line).
Increase: Begin to add the increases at the end of each odd numbered row and at the beginning of each even numbered row to create the spiral form of the pendant.
Row 3 (end row increase): Use A to work 1 row of herringbone but do not complete the last stitch; string 1A, 1B, and 1A. Complete the last stitch by passing down through the second A in the previous row, through the first A in the previous row, and exit the last A just added in row 3. Note: Using a smaller bead for the increases helps to form a smoother curve and makes it easier to identify the location of each increase.
Row 4 (beginning row increase): Turn, string 1A, 1B, and 1A (Figure 1, dark blue line). Pass up through the B added in the previous row. String 2A and pass down through the next A after the B). Use A to complete Row 4 of flat herringbone. String 1 turn-around bead and pass through the last A added in Row 4.
Row 5: Use A to work a row of flat herringbone but do not complete the last stitch. Pass up through the first A in the last stitch, string 2A, and pass through the B in the previous increase at the end of Row 3/beginning of Row 4. Make an increase: String 1A, 1B, and 1A; pass down through the last A in the previous row (Figure 1, red line).
Row 6: Turn, string 1A, and pass through the last A in the increase just added.
Continue to complete a beginning row increase: string 1A, 1B, 1A. Pass through the B added in the Row 5 end increase. String 2A and pass down through the next A after the B. Use A to complete Row 6 in flat herringbone after making the beginning increase.
Rows 7–17: Repeat Rows 5 and 6 five times maintaining firm tension as you stitch each increase to encourage the beadwork to curl. Add a turn around bead at the end of every odd-numbered row.
Do not work Row 18 published in the December 2007/January 2008 issue. Continue to Row 19 to being working decreases at the end of each odd-numbered row.
April/May 2008CorrectionsLucie’s Daisy Patch by Kelli Burns (p. 35)
The materials list should call for:
18 translucent white 6x2mm 4-petal Lucite flowers and 18 pale yellow 6x2mm 4-petal Lucite flowers (not 30 of each).
Step 1’s second and third paragraphs should read: “Narrow chains: Use 6′ of conditioned nylon thread and 8B with 1A centers to make a daisy chain 26 daisies long (Figure 1). Secure the thread and trim close to the work. Repeat for a total of 5 narrow daisy chains. Set aside.
Wide chains: Use 6′ of conditioned nylon thread and 8C with 1Ecenters to make a daisy chain 20 daisies long. Secure the thread and trim close to the work. Repeat for a total of 4 narrow daisy chains. Set aside.”
Step 5’s second paragraph should read: “Flower: Secure 1′ of conditioned nylon thread and exit the F at the tip of one triangle. String the large flower and the drop bead. Pass back through the flower and the F at the tip of the triangle. Pass through the flower, drop bead, and F as many times as possible to reinforce the connection. Secure the thread and trim. Add glue or nail polish to knots as desired.”
June/July 2008CorrectionsCorrected text for the Deliciously Diagonal Beaded Bead by Jessica Beels (Beadwork, June/July 2008)
NOTE: Corrected figures 4 and 5 are included. All other figures are correct.
3 g matte lime green size 11° Japanese seed beads (A)
2 g matte grass green size 11° Japanese seed beads (B)
1 g matte bluish green size 11° Japanese seed beads (C)
4 g shiny black size 11° Japanese seed beads (D)
Black size A nylon beading thread
Size 12 beading needle
Make sure all the seed beads are as close in size to each other as possible.
1: Middle rows. Working in tubular peyote stitch, start at the center (widest) part of the bead and decrease rounds out to one end; the other side is worked to mirror the first:
Rounds 1 and 2: Use 6′ of doubled thread to work the following with 1 bead in each stitch: string 2D, 4A, 2D, 4B, 2D, 4C, 2D, 4A, 2D, 4B, 2D, and 4C. Pass through all the beads again to form a ring, leaving a 4″ tail. Pass through the first D of the ring. Leave some slack.
Round 3: Work tubular peyote stitch around the circle, adding the same color bead you exit. Step up by passing through the first Ds of Rounds 2 and 3 (Figure 1).
2: Decreases. Make a series of decreases to bring the beaded bead to a point, continuing to work in tubular peyote stitch:
Round 4: Work with tight tension and 1 bead in each stitch: 1D, 1A, 1A, 1D, 1B, 1B, 1D, 1C, 1C, 1D, 1A, 1A, 1D, 1B, 1B, 1D, and 1C. Skip over the next bead and step up through the first Ds from Rounds 3 and 4 to make a decrease (Figure 2).
Round 5: Work 1 bead in each stitch: 1D, 1A, 1A, 1D, 1B, 1B, 1D, 1C, 1C, 1D, 1A, 1A, 1D, 1B, 1B, and 1D. Make another decrease by skipping over the next bead and stepping up through the first Ds from Rounds 4 and 5 (Figure 3). Snug the beads. The beadwork will kink, slightly folding on itself. From now on, you’ll always add the same bead color from which you exit.
Round 6: Work the round. Complete the decrease from the previous round by stringing 1D and passing through the first Ds from Rounds 5 and 6 (the previous and this round) (Figure 4). Pull tight.
Round 7: Work the round. To add the last bead of the round, string the same color as you last exited (B), pass through the last bead (D) of Round 6, and through the first Ds from Rounds 6 and 7 (Figure 5).
Round 8: Work the round. To step up to the next round, pass through the last bead added in the previous round and the first Ds from Rounds 7 and 8 (as in Round 6).
Rounds 9–31: Repeat Rounds 7 and 8. When choosing which colors to add at the end of the rounds, continue the color pattern of the diagonal lines, matching the D diagonals to culminate at the black line running along the central point.
Rounds 32 and 33: Work 1D in each stitch. Weave through the rounds a few times to reinforce. Secure the threads and trim close to the work.
3: Finishing. Secure 6′ of new doubled thread that runs in the same direction as before and exits the second D from the central point (the first bead of Round 1).
Repeat Rounds 4–33 to mirror the first half of the bead.
October/November 2008CorrectionsNautical Star by Scarlett Lanson (page 52)
“Rounds 6–31” of Step 1 should read: “Rounds 6–18.”